I need to replace the head on my honeywell 2 port zone valve for DHW. Old head has 5 wires new head has 6 (white being the difference). I wired up the five wires as per existing and placed electrical tape around the white as google searches indicate not needed in an 'S' plan. Tested and not working so some thing must need to be done with the white. guidance please.
Honeywell zone valve
- Thread starter Golde
- Start date
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Why did you replace the head in the first place? How are you testing?
Do you have permanent live on the grey and then live on the brown when the system is switched on for HW?
Do you have permanent live on the grey and then live on the brown when the system is switched on for HW?
the reason for replacing. The pump/boiler keep firing up with the clock turned off (not calling for heat). Potterton who make boiler suggested that it may be the micro switch that is sending false signal. Suggestion was to remove grey wire one at a time as two zone valves on an unvented setup. I traced the two greys and removed the grey wire for the zone valve on the hot water. I then powered back up and tested the CH side and it behaved as expected no false firing up of pump/boiler. Changed head on HW valve tracing each wire back. New head has 6 wire not sure what to do with white as no response when system powered back up and call for hot water.
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yes it is a honeywell valve. body does not need replacing as it is newer model that head can be changed without the need for drain down. it is only the wiring that i need to know specifically the white. thanks.
The white can be made safe and not used.
as previous post i simply placed electrical tape around the white wire and connected up the remaining 5 gre/ye, blue, brown, grey, orange as per actuator removed. When I powered back up and tested hot water it did not work, clock on no energize of valve, no pump running and no boiler fire up. Put old actuator back and system went back to old symptom, pump and boiler running aprprox every 10 mins when on new 6 wire actuator in 'S'plan setup. thanks
Have you tested valve with a meter? The cyl stat should power the brown and the motor should open the valve. The orange should become live via the micro switch closing. Are you sure you're getting 230v to the brown from the cyl stat?
not being an electrician don't own a multi meter or would likley know how to use. If the system however does not falsely fire up with the grey wire from the hot water zone valve removed does this not point to valve as I'm only following what Potterton said? With the grey wire from hot water valve removed the CH side fired up and shut down correctly also had the correct colour neon on boiler after pump over run (amber/orange no call for external heat). when grey wire reconnected boiler neon constantly flashing green and pump & boiler would run with no call for heat.
You need to be able to understand the operation of your system better, and I'm afraid by your own admittance you don't. Your best bet is to call in a pro, who will be able to diagnose the fault in 10 minutes. There's no point in advising any further as you don't have a meter or the understanding to test your system. Good luck.
ignore previous post. I do understand system. The problem with system is the pump runs and boiler fires up with the programmer turned off approx. every 10/15 mins. Potterton suggested tracing the two greys wires that I know are permanent live that are linked together. One for the zone valve for the CH and one for the HW. I then removed the grey for the HW zone valve and tried the CH side turned on at clock and max'd the stat. All behaved as should with no false firing up. My logic therefore would say that the fault is on the HW side. Potterton stated that the most likely fault would be the microswitch. Assuming it is on the HW side am I not correct in saying that consists of programmer, cylinder stat, zone valve, pump and boiler. I believe the sequence is as follows. Programmer on, cylinder stat calling for heat, zone valve energised, pump run and boiler fires up. I appreciate power moves between the wires, grey live, orange switched live etc. If it is the microswitch as Potterton suggested the quickest route for me was to renew the actuator as didn't need a drain down. This is where issue came in the actuator my merchants sold me has 6 wires and the old one has 5. The white being the difference. The instructions indicated not needed in an 'S' plan setup so I placed electrical tape around it and wired up the other 5 but it didn't work at all.
As 45yearsgasman has stated you really need to use test equiptment to diagnose your fault.
the only difference between the two actuators is that your new one has an extra terminal on its internal switch (the white which isn't req on your system)
But just a thought since you have an unvented cylinder, have you checked that the overheat stat on the cylinder hasn't tripped?
Matt
the only difference between the two actuators is that your new one has an extra terminal on its internal switch (the white which isn't req on your system)
But just a thought since you have an unvented cylinder, have you checked that the overheat stat on the cylinder hasn't tripped?
Matt
The reason why I say about the white is because the new actuator once installed did nothing. put clock on to call for heat, cylinder cold so stat would be calling for heat and nothing happened, no energise of valve, no pump start up and no boiler fire up. Put old actuator back on and back to old symptom of pump running and boiler fire up with programmer off.
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