Hoover washing machine won't drain..HELP!!!

[pianorealm]

REALLY hope someone will be able to help me here?

Washer: Hoover Family 1500 Mega Load (model HF7 150M)

About 6 weeks ago the PCB failed....nothing at all happening when I switched the machine on. (This MAY or may not be relevant to the current problem) I replaced the PCB at a cost from Hoover of £90.

Machine ran fine until today.

Now it won't spin because it isn't pumping water out.

I checked the pump and filter housing and found:

1. Several items which were POSSIBLY stopping the impeller rotating (metal and stone chippings)!!!!
2. The two insulated female spade connectors were scorched and partly burnt.
3. There WAS power to the pump itself so I diagnosed a faulty pump.
4. Bought new pump (£15) ..universal job.
5. Still no joy...not pumping water!
6. There are NO other blockages anywhere

This is where I started to get REALLY confused!

If I disconnect the two wires attached to the pump, attach a multi meter to them, there is current (35 volts) when the machine is switched on.

If I connect the pump and then take the same reading, there is no current at all!

There is continuity on between the two teriminals on hte pump end of the wires and the PCB. These are not polarity concious as I understand it.

I have bench tested the old pump with 240 volts and it runs fine?!?!?!

Any help with this problem would be greatly appreciated this washer is a recon and was bought with a 6 month warranty....YEP.....seven months ago! It replaced another washer which cost over £350 and lasted just 6 years.

Our last washer before that lasted 23 years!!!!!!!! Can't afford another at the moment and we need to get on with the washing...CAN ANYONE HELP...PLEASE?

Regards, Howard[/b]

 

[zipper]

If you had a short on the pump (or pump connections) it could have easily blown a triac on the pcb. Have you inspected the board for signs of damage?

 

[pianorealm]

If you had a short on the pump (or pump connections) it could have easily blown a triac on the pcb. Have you inspected the board for signs of damage?

ZIPPER....thanks for the reply. I DID check the board visually (with magnifying glass)!! and it appeared fine.

I'm no expert on electronics at all (or washing machines come to think of it).

However I've just checked with an ohmeter and all the triacs have a resistance of between 30 to 80Ω except one little s*d which doesn't read anything! You were right!

I've eventually managed to identify it as a Teccor brand made by Littlefuse. I'm going to try and source one as they are dead cheap, only problem up to now is the minimum order quantity Ive been able to find is 2000!!!!!!!

Don't suppose anyone has the odd Teccor L0107MERP Triac lying about in their garage?

Or know where I can buy one. THEN I'll have to ask my next door neighbour very nicely if he'll fit it to the board.

It's worth trying though coz a new programmed board is £90 from Hoover!!

Thanks again, Howard

 

[big-all]

dont suppose you have kept the old board and then you can possibly cannabilise from that??

 

[pianorealm]

dont suppose you have kept the old board and then you can possibly cannabilise from that??

Thanks big all. I DO have the old board BUT the trriacs are through hole rather than surface mount.....TYPICAL!!!!

 

[zipper]

Hope you find a triac....This may not be the very cheapest fix but at least its MUCH cheaper than a new pcb....Ask these guys for a quote on a recon board or send the defective one in for repair http://www.emwelec.co.uk/ Be sure to give them the full machine details & don't forget to replace the damaged spade connectors and/or cables before firing up again. Good luck

 

[pianorealm]

Cheers for that Zipper. I'll try to chase up Triac Moday AM. If no look I'll give that firm in the link you sent a go. Have had a quick look and they are miles cheaper than a new PCB. Yes, I've already replaced spade connectors but thanks for the reminder!