Hoover WDM120 W/D Dryer Motor?

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I have just purchased a Hoover washer dryer model number WDM120.

The washer side of the machine is excellent however i've had a few problems with the drying side of it.

It was leaking when "drying" however the clothes weren't being dried. I checked on a site which said the TOCs might also need resetting on these machines.

Sure enough when I opened her up one of the TOCs (small peg-like components on the top side of the drying channel) had popped up and clicked when I pushed down on it.

I then removed a blockage from the chamber which converts the steam to water and pumps it out into the waste pipe.

I thought this would cure all my problems but all that happened was that the metal channel on the top side of the machine got red-hot again and tripped the TOC again.

I then noticed that when the dryer program was on the motor at the top of the machine connected to this channel did not rotate even though there was power being supplied to it. (the brown wire was live when on dry cycle)

When I check the wires when the machine is not on drying mode (i.e standy if you like,) both blue and brown wires are live.

Is this normal - Can anyone help me....?

Thanks for your time,

Dave. :confused:
 
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The dryer fans often fail as they are not running in ideal conditions, being close to very hot moist air. Your electrical checks, were they made using a test screwdriver or a mutimeter? These screwdrivers can give misleading results sometimes and on washing machines you cannot rely on switching being in the live side of the circuitry rather than the neutral.
 
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Thanks for your replies guys -
Call on their guarantee.
Unfortunatley I purchased the washer dryer second hand so it has no remaining guarantee.


The dryer fans often fail as they are not running in ideal conditions, being close to very hot moist air. Your electrical checks, were they made using a test screwdriver or a mutimeter? These screwdrivers can give misleading results sometimes and on washing machines you cannot rely on switching being in the live side of the circuitry rather than the neutral.

I was using an electrical screwdriver and placed it on the blue wires connection to the top of the motor which lit the neon light.

If I were to use my multimeter how would this tell me that the motor was at fault and not the wiring?

Thanks once again for your quick replies, Dave.
 
washing m/c are a pain they switch neutrals, and lives, work differnt, i suggest you call an engineer

to demo a point i once changed a programmer on a w/d it turned out it was a stat at fault, and the syptom i got was a known fault with this m/c. and i used to work for hp (but i didnt know of the known fault)
 
hooverboy said:
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If I were to use my multimeter how would this tell me that the motor was at fault and not the wiring?

Dave.

With the screwdriver you are only identifying wires that are live with respect to earth (you provide the earth path through your body). If the live is connected but there is a fault in the neutral wiring the fan will not operate but you can't check the neutral with your screwdriver. If you use a multimeter and you read approx. 240 volts between the 2 fan motor terminals you know the fault is in the fan. If you don't get approx. 240 volts you know the fault is elsewhere.
 

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