Horizontal cladding on garden room

[Wils81]

Weight worried me a bit too, I'm on a big slope, so it's timber base sitting on 12 concrete blocks, that sit upon concrete stacks, although they are 800mm deep

 

[mrrusty]

Went for planning to get to 3m. Wanted a cedar front and composite sides and back, planning officer wasnt keen on mixing materials

flipping heck - what did you put in your planning for a garden room? I did planning for mine too, but my description was just slate or slate-effect roof and clad exterior. I used wriggly tin for the unseen back walls too.

 

[Why Not Indeed]

I've had vertical T&G, and every board rotted at the bottom, where rain soaked into the end grain, both running down the boards and splashing up..

How about, stop the vertical planks short and use one or more rows of horizontal composite planks like a skirt at the bottom?

 

[Wils81]

They was a nightmare. Wanted to know everything. Hoping to build an extension in a year or so,,, looking forward to that now, not

 

[Wils81]

flipping heck - what did you put in your planning for a garden room? I did planning for mine too, but my description was just slate or slate-effect roof and clad exterior. I used wriggly tin for the unseen back walls too.

Neighbours a nightmare. Size of the room 6x4.5m meant I needed sizeable roof joists, unless I wanted to put a steel in. Hence needing to go to 3m

 

[Wils81]

How about, stop the vertical planks short and use one or more rows of horizontal composite planks like a skirt at the bottom?

Interesting. May have to see if I can find a picture of it somewhere. As mentioned I'm on a hill so can be seen from the roads from 2 sides and the front. I'm sure I'd get away with lower parts not being timber

 

[mrrusty]

Mine's 6.5 x 3.6 with a 3.3m ridge and 2.3m eaves

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

How about, stop the vertical planks short and use one or more rows of horizontal composite planks like a skirt at the bottom?

That would look a bit crap.

 

[Wils81]

Mine's 6.5 x 3.6 with a 3.3m ridge and 2.3m eaves

Yeah but mine is a flat roof, only just over the 1m from boundary nonsense

 

[mrrusty]

only just over the 1m from boundary nonsense

Y mine too. When I went for planning I illustrated how a pitched roof with 2.3m eaves a bit away from the boundary was going to be better for the fairly close neighbours than a 2.5m wall right on the boundary......

 

[Wils81]

Sorry to resurrect this.

Would framing the cladding into sections be better? I think it would look better, just not sure on it's practicality. What I mean is running treated 2x2's down the external corners and one in the middle to create 2 equal sections to fit the cladding into. Could then run some ct1 or thick silicone bead between the cut end of the boards and the 2x2 posts

 

[^woody^]

Sorry to resurrect this.

Would framing the cladding into sections be better? I think it would look better, just not sure on it's practicality. What I mean is running treated 2x2's down the external corners and one in the middle to create 2 equal sections to fit the cladding into. Could then run some ct1 or thick silicone bead between the cut end of the boards and the 2x2 posts

One piece boards and no joints are optimal. With cedar, and individually shaded boards, any join and different shade board horizontally is amplified and it can look a bit crap if not carefully managed - avoid a pallet board vibe.

It's not so prominent with a single colour cladding, but totally different with cedar.

Likewise, dividing the elevation into bays with a vertical stop needs careful thought and design to avoid a sort of "cobbled together" look.

Look at some images and see if you'd be happy looking at one or the other.

Technically, it makes no difference and performance is the same. Cedar boards don't move much horizontally so you won't need vertical cover to hide expansion/contraction.