Hotpoint Aquarius 1000 WM62 - not working

[paulbaxter]

Ok in hindsight not the smartest thing to do but that is hindsight

Moved my Hotpoint Aquarius 1000 WM62 between houses on an open trailer and it rained in transit (heavily)

I plumbed it in and then powered up

Flash-bang

Its now not working. Lights do not come on at all
Power gets to the machine itself. [i.e. checked fuse in plug ok]
PCB does not have any burned marks / scorch marks on it - looks ok visually
Only area of some soot is on one or two leads that connect to motor

Can anyone assist with a few steps to debug which components are damaged and need replaced?

Thanks

 

[fidom]

It could be the On / Off switch. This is not the easiest part to get at so you might need to loosen the timer to get better access for inspection / replacement. Also look at the mains filter at the back near the cable entry point.

 

[paulbaxter]

It could be the On / Off switch. This is not the easiest part to get at so you might need to loosen the timer to get better access for inspection / replacement. Also look at the mains filter at the back near the cable entry point.

1) The mains filter is (I assume) the first unit the mains goes into at the tope rear of the machine. If that is the case Multimeter shows 240v AC coming bac out out of this on on spade with brown and greeb cable so I assume this unit is ok?

2) On / off switch does look tricky to get at. How do I loosen the timer?
Ans how to i test its operation?

Apologies for seemingly stupid questions but I cant see how its fixed.
I assume the timer is the silver cylindrical component attached to PCB?

3) Also - Do I assume soot round motor is from natural wear on brushes and nothing to worry about?

Thanks in advance

P

 

[paulbaxter]

Made some progress

Having google about I figured out how to loosen the timer
So I can get into on / off switch and measure voltage.

For brown cabling going to door latch I get 240v when swich is 'out'
when its 'in' I get 0 volts

What does good look like for this
Is switch ok?

 

[fidom]

Taking voltage measurements can be misleading as burnt switch contacts (for example) may give a good reading with no load but that connection will break down as soon as you try to pass any current through it. Both the On / Off switch and the door switch can be checked by bypassing them. The On / Off switch switches both live and neutral but the door switch only switches the live. In the case of the door switch you need to be certain you have identified the neutral wire which is usually black and thinner than the other two. To bypass it you disconnect the two thick wires from the door switch and join them together (having made a note of which goes where on the switch!).

 

[paulbaxter]

Taking voltage measurements can be misleading as burnt switch contacts (for example) may give a good reading with no load but that connection will break down as soon as you try to pass any current through it. Both the On / Off switch and the door switch can be checked by bypassing them. The On / Off switch switches both live and neutral but the door switch only switches the live. In the case of the door switch you need to be certain you have identified the neutral wire which is usually black and thinner than the other two. To bypass it you disconnect the two thick wires from the door switch and join them together (having made a note of which goes where on the switch!).

Sorry for continued questions

I've bypassed the on off switch
No change in behavior -nothing happening

So is it door switch next?