Hotpoint Aquarius FDW20 diswasher Any Ideas out there ??

[techstein]

Hotpoint Aquarius FDW20 diswasher prewash and wash are flashing,

a few months ago i changed the water pump it was clean but just worn out and did not pump out well,after that machine worked, fine


now when the machine is turned on water comes in it gets swirled around, and is heated , it just stays like that it does not pump out and continue,the cycle like it should .


then first 2 leds flash green , prewash and wash,


so i turned the selector to reset wait a few mins try a new cycle and , but it does not start a new cycle as the old water has not been pumped out ,
left the plug out a few mins tried again diff. cycles too but still the same issue.

so i removed the pump checked it it is clean and works fine
i checked all hoses all clear there too no blockages as i put garden hose water through it,

then i wired the water pump directly to the mains it pumps the water out of the machine just fine,

so i know no blockages and the water outlet pump is good
i cheked the main PCB board all looks good there i reseated all connectors too.

then i took new cables from the water outletpump upto the pcb board
just incase the old cables were cracking under the door where they bend ,
but still the same issue

hmm this is knocking on my knowledge now its getting intresting
so i disconnected the heater element in case it is tripping cicuit but still the same issues.

I noticed the antiflood device cable has 2 holes in its connector

but the device has 3 lugs on it ?? the top lug is longer than the other two

I used the top 2 as i Am sure thts is how it was when i first saw it , but
would like this confirmed ? as this connector is not keyed
with orange cable at top
and brown cable at the bottom

I am trying the machine with antiflood device disconnected.

anyone with any posssible ideas what the issue is , or what to try to troubleshoot ??

Update could this be a capacitor issue,,like the large one near the motor.??

 

[techstein]

Any ideas at all, ??

is the capicator being used continuously while the machine is pumping around ??

I suspect it does charge and discharge its power rapidly to the big circulation pump


As i understand it all dishwashers start with a pump out as soon as a prog is selected , to remove any remaining water etc.


this machine never gets to the pumping out stage,
i was wondering what makes it move on to that stage after it has washed , or when a prog is first selected,

is it a relay or something..??

could the failture of the supressor terminal cause such issues or is it just an adapter ??
seen on this page

http://www.hotpoint-spares.co.uk/dishwashers-fdw20p-c-7894_7929.html?page=6&sort=20a


thanks for any possible suggestiions

 

[techstein]

I reckon these have a pressure switch and sensor

as the hose from the pressure switch goes into the sump

i will check this is clean and drops after sucktion is applied to ensure it is not jammed ,


i reckon these also have a pressure sensor , betweeen the big circulation pump, and the spray arm , i will remove and clean it.


this is for anyone following this post , incase they have similar issues ,

 

[rocks1]

Check the ribbon cable that goes from the pcb to the LEDs look for green mould on the edge connector

 

[techstein]

Thanks Rocks1 , will check that and post back
mean while i have done some testing

I figured the water level switch sets of differant devices depending on its state ,it makes connections active to diff devices , depending on the connections that are pushed down in it , by air pressure as water enters/exits the machine.

so i did a bit of testing on the water level switch it seems suspect , imho..(when i mention switch i am referring to the
device that is 2 inch in diameter and round , and works like a diaphragm with air pressue.

Testing as as follows with multimeter set for continuity test..
with the 3 possible combinations ,

no pressure blown down pipe
1 & 2, no continuity
1 & 3 yes continuity
2 & 3. no continuity <<<<<<<

with pressure blown down pipe
1 & 2, continuity
1 & 3 no continuity
2 & 3. no continuity <<<<<<


as connectors 2 and 3 both show the same state (No continuity) with air blown down or not i presume this is faulty ,

does my test seem logical ??
Because i reckon with air blown down they should go to opposite states,
so if there was previously continuity , after air pressure they should go to opposite states , and have no continuity.

I think these also have a pressure level switch as well not sure what it does exactly link to it is here .Sure would like to know ?

http://www.espares.co.uk/part/dishw.../863308/870976/dishwasher-high-pressure-.html

Thanks for sugestions
Techstein..

 

[techstein]

Thanks rocks1,
I Checked for green contacts I cleaned them as one was a bit green but not to bad .

Now i also took out the high pressure sensor to test that also

http://www.hotpoint-spares.co.uk/high-pressure-sensor-for-fdw20p-p-122251.html


there are 2 pics attatched ,

i took the actual switch (REd) out of the sensor housing (white)t slides out with the help of a flat blade screwdriver.

it works perfect , there is continuity between the two contact points when it is out of the white housing,

and when it is out and i press the black button contunity breaks just as it should

when i put it back in the housing continuity does not break,which is normal

But then i blowed and sucked down the pipe to create pressure , i hear the insides move up and down but that does not activate the small black switch,as I would expect..


so then i used a fooot pump that created enough pressure for
the switch to be pressed and then the test worked continuity was broken
and upon releasing pressure from the pump ,
it went back to its normal state of continuity


Question do i have a faulty switch here as a lot of pressure is required for it to click the small black button should it click the black button by just blowing down it ?,

when the black button is down continuity is broken as it should.


anybody got one of these at hand they can check

or any ideas I can work with

thanks


any suggestions appreciated..

Techstein

housing and red switch

• techstein
• 27 Apr 2011
• 1

switch removed from housing

• techstein
• 27 Apr 2011
• 1

between the 2 points there is continuity till the black button is pressed

 

[rocks1]

Try this. Disconnect the ribbon cable to the LEDs and try it on a wash or quick wash see if it goes though

 

[techstein]

rocks1 the board is similar to this


it has 2 main connectors on it

http://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/popup_image.php?pID=2402&image=0

so i guess you mean the smaller connector
thanks
Techstein

 

[techstein]

As a side note the antflood device has 3 connectors but the plug ony uses 2

as i recall it uses the top 2 connectors can anyone confirm this as hte connector is not keyed

thanks
Techstein.

Untitled

• techstein
• 27 Apr 2011
• 1

 

[rocks1]

Yes the connector or ribbon cable goes to the LEDs on the other side of the consol the one with wash and prewash it links them together dis connect the link so the LEDs don't light up.

 

[techstein]

rocks1
I see the smaller connector has 3 wires which lead to salt refil led ,
and the other one down to the antiflood device

will try this and get back

I have included pics of the back of the PCB also , looks like the diodes are micro diodes on the PCB

I will try it tomorrow without the cable connected

do you know if it affects a machine if the antiflood device is disconnected. just for testing purposes??


thanks
Techstein

Main pcb

• techstein
• 27 Apr 2011
• 1

Main PCB close up

• techstein
• 27 Apr 2011
• 1

back of BCP

• techstein
• 27 Apr 2011
• 1

Closeup back of PCB

• techstein
• 27 Apr 2011
• 1

 

[techstein]

Yes the connector or ribbon cable goes to the LEDs on the other side of the consol the one with wash and prewash it links them together dis connect the link so the LEDs don't light up.

rocks1 ,,still the same issue washes heats water pumps it around but does not pump it out,

So then i need to manually remove the water from the machine , with a hand pump or whtever,

i "heard" that the main washer circulation pump works in series with this drain pump,
even though they are seperate units, if this is correct ..

I wonder if its worth changing the capicator on the circulation pump
as that could cause issues with the circulation pump

,But I am not sure if the capicator is actually used when the pump is running or is it only used t shunt start the circulation pump,?

as the circulation pump starts fine
any ideas ??