How do I make this table thing out of timber

[Krusty494]

I made it once out of a sheet of MDF so i cut each panel out to size (5 squares 20cmx20cm). I want to make a better one out of timber. The timber I have is 10cm wide. How would you tackle this?
Thanks for any advice

see attached image:

 

[foxhole]

Missing a lot of info , timber has three dimensions you provide only one?

 

[Krusty494]

Missing a lot of info , timber has three dimensions you provide only one?

didnt think it was too important. its about 18mm thick, enough for my uses here. Too thick to want each platform to be 2 layers thick if possible. And I definitely have enough in length

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Solid wood isn't like man-made sheet material. It generally isn't jointed the same way as you do with sheet materials and it is far more prone to moving with changes in atmospheric moisture content. That's why traditional furniture is made using techniques such as frame and panel construction.

Your design is not particularly sympathetic to using solid timber - it is the sort of design which is better suited to veneered and edged or lipped man-made boards

 

[big-all]

in your diagram you are showing just corner support your timber needs support full width across the grain something like 2x1"[18x44mm]timber

 

[Deleted member 174758]

It's a table, B-A, so isn't a cleat inappropriate? Easier to get strength and resisy racking by using deeper aprons on the top and shelves and using appropriate jointing

 

[big-all]

It's a table, B-A, so isn't a cleat inappropriate? Easier to get strength and resisy racking by using deeper aprons on the top and shelves and using appropriate jointing

i am sure it would work but suspect minimum tools and minimum skills although i may be very wrong [sorry if i am ]??
just trying a simple solution thats possible rather than the perfect neat solution

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I'm not saying it wouldn't work, but it is surely a rather crude approach to take for a piece of furniture where joints, etc are all on show. More suitable, perhaps, to site carpentry work than to furniture making

 

[Krusty494]

in your diagram you are showing just corner support your timber needs support full width across the grain something like 2x1"[18x44mm]timber

I think I misunderstand because it sounds like you mean the legs should be like the top right picture instead of the bottom right? So to go across the grain full width of the horizontal boards.

It's a table, B-A, so isn't a cleat inappropriate? Easier to get strength and resisy racking by using deeper aprons on the top and shelves and using appropriate jointing

Could you explain your suggestion further? I try search "carpentry aprons", "woodworking aprons" to see what you mean but of course can only find aprons. What jointing? Though using some kind of cleats could be OK for me

suspect minimum tools and minimum skills

...& minimum knowledge! Thank you both for your input!

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Could you explain your suggestion further? I try search "carpentry aprons", "woodworking aprons" to see what you mean but of course can only find aprons. What jointing?

Oh, boy. You come across as not a native English speaker. In addition you appear to have zero knowledge of design, materials and tools - all of which is going to make explanations exceedingly difficult and won't be helped by any typos I, or others, may make. It might be easier for you if you found a forum in your native language.

"Apron" in joinery terms refers to a piece of material in the vertical plane forming the extended edge of a top. Where the apron connects to a vertical component, such as a slab end, the joint can confer extra rigidity to the structure - the deeper the apron, the (potentially) greater the rigidity.

You are also talking in terms of edge joining two boards to make a wider board. Unless you posessess a modicum of equipment, starting with a workbench plus other equipment such as sash cramps, dowelling jig/router and slot cutter/biscuit jointer, etc this project will be impossible to complete to any reasonable acceptable standard for a piece of furniture. This is why I suggested using a sheet material such as veneered MDF board combined with wood edge banding or solid wood lippings which will not only give you the wood effect you require, but also cost considerably less. Either way you still need the necessary tools to joint the components (e.g. dowel joints, tenon joints, biscuit joints, etc) so that they can be assembled, preferably without fixings such as screw heads being left visible