How do I painta freshly plastered ceiling and get perfection

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In the past I have painted brand new plastered ceilings with watered down paint first then followed up with normal coats. Each time it has been a disaster!! a roller leaves stipple, a brush leaves lines.

I have heard that they have to be sprayed..............that seems a bit excessive, I want to look at the ceiling and want to see a wonderfully smooth white tribute to the plasterer's skill, not something that I have ruined!.................what's the technique??
 
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become short sighted like me!

But seriously there are a couple of issues. If your plasterer has an over placed sense of pride, s/he may have made a beautiful mirror polished job... great stuff... but paint won't stick to it. If you want a perfect surface, then spraying is your best bet.
 
Good quality roller and good quality paint are your best bet, but I don't think you'll get a completely flat finish because emulsion is so thick and dries so fast, not like, say old fashioned oil based paints which dried lovely and smooth.

I do find too that painting fresh plaster will show any imperfections that you didn't think were there..
And I find I rarely look at the ceiling in great detail after job done, so minor imperfections don't bother me after anyway '-)
 
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I have tried high quality rollers and all makes of paint. As you say, the key is to ****** the evaporation speed of that naughty emulsion or use a spraygun.

I always want to do the very best job I can, so hate the thought of not being able to achieve a perfect job.
 
wovern long pile roller,thinned emulsion paint and back roll with a dry roller to loose the stipple
 
Don't spray - the paint will just end up all over you and the floor. As mentioned above good tools and technique is the answer.

I have just done a 4m x 5m room with no problems and a nice flat surface. Nothing fancy, just practice.
 
A good trade white (trade as in good quality, not trade as is a bucket of cheap crap) , a medium pile wood roller, and a good quality 2inch brush for edging.

If you look at it from 6inches away you will see brush strokes in the edging, and roller texture in the rest, but it should not look a mess.

Else as said, pay someone to do it and watch closely, they may even offer to give advice on what went wrong on the other rooms.


Daniel
 
I have been rebuilding houses for over 30 years but of course the fashion for a smooth ceiling has only returned in probably the last 10ish.

I now only use Leyland emulsion from my decorators merchant, after I have applied the *issy coats how much should I thin the proper coats by?
 
On large ceilings, a 12" or even 15" roller will help speed things up and keep a wet edge for longer but if you are not used to using one that size it can be tricky to start with. You need to roll lightly in one direction when the roller has less paint on it to lay off and eliminate any stipples. You can cut in as close to the edge as possible with a small roller to avoid excessive brush marks.

Depending on what paint you are using to finish, you don't really want to be thinning by more than 5-10%, and sometimes not at all. (EDIT: By this I mean that Leyland trade emulsions can need thinning but their standard emulsions don't really.)
 
完璧には可能であった場合、それは持つ価値がないであろう。

(Japanese saying)
 
By way of a conclusion..............I bought a spray outfit from screwfix (erbauer). I thinned the first coat (Leyland contract emulsion) to a 22 second viscosity, 2nd coat to 35 sec, third coat to 40 sec. Each coat was applied quite thickly with 5hrs in between. The result is mega!!! loads of masking is needed but I have acheived perfection grasshopper!
 
By way of a conclusion..............I bought a spray outfit from screwfix (erbauer). I thinned the first coat (Leyland contract emulsion) to a 22 second viscosity, 2nd coat to 35 sec, third coat to 40 sec. Each coat was applied quite thickly with 5hrs in between. The result is mega!!! loads of masking is needed but I have acheived perfection grasshopper!

piccy's... so we can criticise ;)
 

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