How long would it take for me to make a stud wall?

[OM2]

Me: not an experienced builder or anything - very practical though
I've seen a few video on youtube before - it doesn't seem all that hard!

How long would it take me to build a stud wall?

What I want to do is insulate my garage so I can work there in the winter

I want to put a stud wall up where the garage door is and put boarding up on the ceiling and insulation on top of that

EDIT: if I did make the stud wall myself:

- how close to the edges should I make it?
- what would I do to fill the gaps on the edges? Use some sort of foam?
- if my purpose is insulation, how deep should I make the stud wall?
- how deep can I/should I make it?

Or should I get someone to do it for me?

I know this might be a 'how long is a piece of string' question!
I thought I'd try asking anyway

Thanks


OM

 

[Deleted member 174758]

How long would it take me to build a stud wall?

You should be able to do it easily in a morning, including insulation and cladding if you are at all handy. A joiner would be faster. If the ceiling is flat (not sloped) you can make-up the studding wall in the floor (in two parts) and simply raise in into place and fix to the walls and floor. I'd go with 3 x 2in CLS for the frame. Do the ceiling after the wall because the new stud wall will support the ceiling. Vecause the ceiling is not sctrucural you'll get away with 2 x 2in softwood framed at 600mm or 24in centres (depends on the cladding material). A ceiling frame and cladding is best done two-handed.

What I want to do is insulate my garage so I can work there in the winter

Stuff mineral wool between the verticals before you clad with PB. Foam in around the edges

- how close to the edges should I make it?
- what would I do to fill the gaps on the edges? Use some sort of foam?
- if my purpose is insulation, how deep should I make the stud wall?
- how deep can I/should I make it?

- Edge to edge, floor to about 3/4in shy of the ceiling
- Edge gaps - PU foam. I'd consider sheeting-off the back of the door with plastic sheet to reduce moisture ingress and I'd lay some 1000 gauge Visqueen or plastic DPM beneath the wall frame on the concrete
- Insulation? Make frames from 3 x 2in CLS (2 X 2in rough sawn for the ceiling) and use 100mm mineral wool roll to insulate

Or should I get someone to do it for me?

Would you like a quote?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Should hace asked. Do you have a chop saw and hammer drill? makes a lot of diffference to the speed of the job

 

[OM2]

If the ceiling is flat (not sloped) you can make-up the studding wall in the floor (in two parts) and simply raise in into place and fix to the walls and floor

is that 2 vertical (i.e. side by side) or 2 horizontaly (i.e. on top of each other)?
after raising, would i have to connect the 2 sides?

I'd go with 3 x 2in CLS for the frame.

this is what i saw in 1 or 2 videos on youtube
why would i not go thicker? surely the bigger the gap, the better the insulation?

question: given that i want to have insulation in the stud wall, do i have to put a side for both front and back - i don't recall seeing them doing this on you tube (maybe i just missed it when they did!) - and, i didn't see anyone putting insulation in?

A ceiling frame and cladding is best done two-handed.

u mean use 2 people?

Stuff mineral wool between the verticals before you clad with PB. Foam in around the edges

mineral wool? whats wrong with normal insulation that is used in the ceiling?
what's PB?
foam? where do i get this? how robust is it? how long will it last?

I'd consider sheeting-off the back of the door with plastic sheet to reduce moisture ingress and I'd lay some 1000 gauge Visqueen or plastic DPM beneath the wall frame on the concrete

what back door?
whats moisture ingress?
gauge visqueen? plastic dpm? have u just made those up?
ok, it's more likely my inexpereince why i've never heard of those things
can i buy these from wickes or b&q?

Would you like a quote?

i don't know if ur being serious!
yes, i would like a quote - please pm if u r serious!
ur based in lancashire though - i'm in essex

question: how do i fix the stud wall to a concrete floor? and left and right brick wall?
if i have a 3/4 inch gap like u suggest, then, i'm not 100% sure which way is best?

Do you have a chop saw and hammer drill? makes a lot of diffference to the speed of the job

i'd buy whatever i didn't have - it would be an investment for me

a lot more wiser - but i have many more questions now

thanks for the help - really appreciated

 

[Deleted member 174758]

is that 2 vertical (i.e. side by side) or 2 horizontaly (i.e. on top of each other)?
after raising, would i have to connect the 2 sides?

It's two frames SIDE BY SIDE which when fixed (screwed, nailed) together make-up the whole wall. A frame comprises a sole plate, upright studs at 400mm or 16in centres (but this depends on the size of the PBs you use, for example 1800 x 900 boards would require 450mm centres) and a head plate. The reason for making two frames up is that it would be physically impossible to raised a full width frame because it needs to be fairly tight to the walls (NOT 3/4IN OFF) because otherwise you'll not be able to fix the frames to the walls. If your roof isn't flat and slopes downwards as it runs away from the door it may not be possible to use this technique unless you lift the frame in such a way as to position the top first then swing the bottom downwards into place on the floor

I'd go with 3 x 2in CLS for the frame.

this is what i saw in 1 or 2 videos on youtube
why would i not go thicker? surely the bigger the gap, the better the insulation?

Your choice, but any more than 3 x 2in CLS isn't necessary for strength and would be complete waste of money. You can always position a 3 x 2in frame an inch off the wall to accommodate thicker insulation

question: given that i want to have insulation in the stud wall, do i have to put a side for both front and back - i don't recall seeing them doing this on you tube (maybe i just missed it when they did!) - and, i didn't see anyone putting insulation in?

No, the insulation should be cut so that it is a tight fit between the studs

A ceiling frame and cladding is best done two-handed.

u mean use 2 people?

Yes. It's a bit difficult nailing one end of an 8ft horizontal length up on your own whilst holding it horizontal. You need a mate or a jig to hold the other end. Same goes for measuring the studs which need to be a tight fit (I normally cut mine 1 to 2mm over and knock in with a hammer)

Stuff mineral wool between the verticals before you clad with PB. Foam in around the edges

mineral wool? whats wrong with normal insulation that is used in the ceiling?
what's PB?
foam? where do i get this? how robust is it? how long will it last?

Mineral wool = Rockwool = Earthwool = Cavity wall insulation. Any builders merchant knows what it is
PB = Shorthand for plasterboard
Foam = Expanding polyurethane foam. Available from any builders merchant

I'd consider sheeting-off the back of the door with plastic sheet to reduce moisture ingress and I'd lay some 1000 gauge Visqueen or plastic DPM beneath the wall frame on the concrete

what back door?
whats moisture ingress?
gauge visqueen? plastic dpm? have u just made those up?
ok, it's more likely my inexpereince why i've never heard of those things
can i buy these from wickes or b&q?

Back OF the door..... Garage doors have gaps around them around which you may also get some rain getting blown in or under and through which a draught will probably blow. Sheeting over with plastic will pretty much put a stop to this.

The stud wall should be sat on a layer of DPM (damp proof membrane) to prevent the frame from wicking-up moisture from the concrete floor - standard building practice. It is sold in rolls about 8in wide. Visqueen is 1000 gauge polythene roll sold at BUILDERS MERCHANTS which can be cut into strips to do the same as the DPM roll and which will also seal-off the back of the garage door in front of which you are building a stud wall

Would you like a quote?

i don't know if ur being serious!
yes, i would like a quote - please pm if u r serious!
ur based in lancashire though - i'm in essex

No, but then the questions you've just asked me I was thinking the same!

question: how do i fix the stud wall to a concrete floor? and left and right brick wall?
if i have a 3/4 inch gap like u suggest, then, i'm not 100% sure which way is best?

Using these. The upright frame needs to be tight to the wall AT BOTH SIDES. The 3/4in gap is at the TOP so that you can pivot the frame(s) up into position. If you din't have it you'd never be able to position the frame (think geometry at school)