How sharp should a splitting axe, maul and post hole digger be?

[d000hg]

I have a Fiskars 72cm splitting axe - the first one I've owned. It's been used a bit but looking online people say even new axes can need sharpening to get a better edge.

At the other end of the spectrum I also have a "17lb roughneck post hole digging bar" https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-17lb-post-hole-digger/62496 which is effectively a very heavy crowbar with crude axe-head on the end

I think I remember reading that some axes shouldn't be too sharp - mauls possibly?
So for each of these - splitting axe, maul and digging bar - how sharp is best and how often do they need sharpening?

 

[blup]

Ok this is a bit of a "how long is a piece of string" question, but here's my two ha'porth.

Axe - use a metal file on each side until the tip is sharp enough that you can feel an edge under you finger tip. It can only be too sharp in the sense that if chisel like it would break up at the edge. The weight of the axe head will do most of the work if swung properly. You are splitting wood not slicing paper.

Maul - as afar I know a maul is an axe with a squared head on the other side to bash in a splitter, so the same sharpness as above.

Digging bar, might be worth running a file over the tip if used to sever tree roots, but it will also be hitting/breaking bits of concrete or brick etc so sharpnesss not generally essential.

You will get a feel for what is needed as you go along.

Blup

 

[Ian H]

I have a massive rubber mallet that I call a maul.

 

[d000hg]

Ok this is a bit of a "how long is a piece of string" question, but here's my two ha'porth.

Axe - use a metal file on each side until the tip is sharp enough that you can feel an edge under you finger tip. It can only be too sharp in the sense that if chisel like it would break up at the edge. The weight of the axe head will do most of the work if swung properly. You are splitting wood not slicing paper.

Maul - as afar I know a maul is an axe with a squared head on the other side to bash in a splitter, so the same sharpness as above.

Digging bar, might be worth running a file over the tip if used to sever tree roots, but it will also be hitting/breaking bits of concrete or brick etc so sharpnesss not generally essential.

You will get a feel for what is needed as you go along.

Blup

I thought a maul was more like a sledgehammer with a tapered head on one side... so working on a wedge principle rather than cutting per se... like using a splitting wedge with a sledgehammer pretty much?
I can see making the tip too sharp would mean it is thin and delicate; my only other thought was whether an edge being too sharp might possibly get stuck more... but this is a total guess.

Any way sounds like the axe should be sharp but not a razor, basically.