How to add CH corrosion inhibitor

[londonpuma]

hi guys,after my last attempt at fixing my CH motorised valve,i got the system drained,valve replaced,but the header tank was full of soft sludge,the system was refilled without adding the inhibator.
what im going to do is tie up the ballcock,plug the hole into the system and clean out and wash the header tank.
now my question is,if i unplug the hole from the header into the system,add the inhabator[is there a special one i need] into the header tank and release the ballcock and let the header tank fill up,will the inhabator go around the system or do i have to completly drain the system again.
many thanks.
LP.
PS the water that came out when flushed was clean as a whistle

 

[oldbuffer]

1. Any good quality inhibitor will do. My personal preference is Sentinel X100

2. The inhibitor won't go into the system for ages, if at all, if you just put it into an empty F&E tank.

3. You need to either:

a. Drain the system down to just below the top of the highest radiator and add it to the F&E OR

b. Shut off a radiator both sides (counting the lock shield side turns so it can be turned back on the same amount), remove the plug with the bleed key in it, syphon a litre or so of water out of it, add the inhibitor, open the radiator valves. Can only be done with radiators with removable plugs, and easiest to do on a towel rail type with the plug in the top.

 

[londonpuma]

cheers dude,looks like A is the way to go,what would happen if u dont use an inhabator

 

[gigz]

It'll rust the rads from inside out (put a nail in a jam jar of water). Easy way to get inhibitor in is (in the absence of a towel rail) put the inhibitor into an empty domestos bottle, get a thin hose over the bottles nipple, set drain away, take bleed nipple out of highest rad and put hose into hole, the suction/squirt will get the inhibitor in, empty bottle and turn drain off, refill. Sounds faffy but works a treat.