How to connect to copper tail?

[AndyJ88]

Hi all,

I just got a new tap that has 15mm copper tails, I got a flexible tap connector assuming that would connect to the copper tail.

Unfortunately although the copper tail connects at one end, it does not fit into the copper tail, do I need something else?

 

[muggles]

Yes, you need a photo so we can see what you're trying to achieve

 

[AndyJ88]

Hopefully there are 2 images attached now.

I’ve got 2 copper tails that came with the tap although I’m open to using flexi.

Somehow I have to connect to the bottom where there is a valve, currently stopping the water.

The gap from tap to isolator is about 700mm.

 

[muggles]

You need three 15mm compression couplers and a length of pipe to complete that installation. Do you have those?

 

[DP]

You need three 15mm compression couplers and a length of pipe to complete that installation. Do you have those?

If the poster is asking for guidance to such a simple task, perhaps my grandson, who is 18 months old and already showing off how the jigsaw pieces come together might be able to help here

Andy, copper tail fits into the tap
You have a gap between the isolating valve and copper tail end
You need a length of copper pipe to make the shortfall good
You also need appropriate fitting to make connections
Go to B&Q armed with copper tail and get the brass fittings that have two open ends the pipe slides into
This brass fitting needs to be straight not an elbow
You will also need two spanners that fit the capnuts on the brass fitting
You will need two olives for existing fitting and cut the pipe from existing tap to reuse the cap nut

 

[dilalio]

Copper tails on a tap are a sign of a decent product... Flexi hoses on kitchen taps are the most common cause of house floods.
Adapt and overcome without using flexis.

 

[HERTS P&D]

Don't forget miles and miles of PTFE tape on every part of any joint.

Andy

 

[AndyJ88]

Hi,

Thanks for all your input, apologies if you think this is a basic task it's not one I have done before.

DP - I know the copper tails fit into the tap, and I know I have to bridge the gap.

I visited my local plumbing shop and I now have:
-Flexible tails that go into the mixer tap
-A brass connector with the word "1/2" on, which allows the flexible tail to connect to a flexible tap connector
-The flexible tap connector attaches to the existing isolator valve connection

I just connected it all up but it seems to be leaking from both the part where the flexible tail connects to the flexible connector, and the part where the flexible connector connects to the existing isolator valve.

Any tips on how to stop this?

 

[AndyJ88]

Couple of pictures of the connector attached

 

[Yorkshirebloke]

Did you wrap ptfe tape on any of the threads?

 

[AndyJ88]

I didn’t, I did wonder how exactly it was going to seal when there was nothing water tight.

Do you think that’s why it’s leaking? How tight should I tighten?

 

[muggles]

Well that's a massive bodge. I stand by my original statement - you needed three 15mm compression couplers and a length of 15mm copper pipe. Failing that, you need to put PTFE on the threads entering the ½" socket and you've probably tightened the other end up onto the isolation valve too much, cutting through the washer, so you'll need a new ½" washer for that (or possibly a new flexi if it's a funny size). I'd do it all in copper though...did I mention that?

 

[AndyJ88]

Would something like the below be considered less bodge? Copper tail with flexible end.

Based on my understanding the olive in the flexible tail connector should tighten onto the copper pipe and form a waterproof seal?

 

[muggles]

Getting better, certainly. Be aware that flexible hoses restrict the flow quite a lot, so you might find you have somewhat disappointing performance, especially if connecting to low pressure. Jet Blue on the olives will help it to seal

 

[lemon_1]

Just dump the copper tails and replace with flexis that can be screwed in to the tap