How to control plinth LEDs from light switch not socket?

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I want to get plinth LEDs for my new kitchen and I have seen these which I like:

http://www.sealdesigns.co.uk/45mm-led-lights/10-x-45mm-white-round-led.htm

The problem is that they come with a 3 pin plug in transformer, but I want to control these LEDs from a normal light switch (maybe even a PIR switch) and not a socket switch.

Any ideas on the best way to do this?

I was thinking about plugging the transformer into an extenstion socket and wiring the extension socket to the light switch?

wp98dc59e1.png
 
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First things first. Do you have a live and a neutral at your light switch?
Do not assume that a black or blue wire is neutral, its probably a switched live.
 
First things first. Do you have a live and a neutral at your light switch?
Do not assume that a black or blue wire is neutral, its probably a switched live.

Well I am having a new kitchen extension built and it's still at early stages so none of the wiring has been done yet. So I can specify the wiring that will be required.
 
OK, so have the electrician provide a switched lighting circuit to a convenient point and terminate it in a 13A unswitched socket. Mark the socket "lighting load max 3amp".

Plug your LED transformer into the socket and you are ready to go.
 
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I want to get plinth LEDs for my new kitchen and I have seen these which I like:

http://www.sealdesigns.co.uk/45mm-led-lights/10-x-45mm-white-round-led.htm

The problem is that they come with a 3 pin plug in transformer, but I want to control these LEDs from a normal light switch (maybe even a PIR switch) and not a socket switch.

Any ideas on the best way to do this?

I was thinking about plugging the transformer into an extenstion socket and wiring the extension socket to the light switch?

wp98dc59e1.png

I have just done something similar but instead of wiring a switched-live to the socket, its a permanent live with a remote RF module plugged into it, similar to this (but single-gang):

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HOME-EASY-DOU...vr_id=&cguid=87c43dd01280a0e203672e07ff0bec66
 
Links in this post may contain affiliate links for which DIYnot may be compensated.
no, no, no. You need a fused connection unit in line to the PIR.

Beware, most PIRs have a minimum load. LEDs may not satisfy this. Why do you want energy saving switch supplying a product that, if it used any less electricity, would actually generate it? ;) Just put a switched FCU there.
 
Thanks for the quick reply. I want a PIR switch, not to save energy, but so that if someone walks into the kitchen at night the LED lights automatically turn on, so the main lights don't have to be turned on.

What do you mean by a fused connection unit in line to the PIR?

Can it be looped with the power sockets?

I am far from an electrician so my knowledge is limited, but I'll have to explain it to my builder or show him a diagram how I want it.
 
The correct method is to put a fused connection unit with a 3A fuse in the position you have the PIR in the diagram, then a short cable from the FCU to the PIR, then a cable from the PIR to the socket.

I am far from an electrician so my knowledge is limited, but I'll have to explain it to my builder or show him a diagram how I want it.
Blind leading the blind... :rolleyes:
 
1) Why do you want the lights on a PIR? What's wrong with an ordinary switch?

2) That PIR costs over £30 including delivery - if you're using it to save money on lights being left on unnecessarily you should think again.

3) Lights on a PIR in a room will drive you mad.
 
I want a PIR switch, not to save energy, but so that if someone walks into the kitchen at night the LED lights automatically turn on, so the main lights don't have to be turned on.

True, if the PIR isn't in the correct position it wouldn't work effectively and would drive me mad.



Do I really need the fused connection unit?
 
YES! If you are insistant on supplying a PIR from the ring final circuit then you must have an FCU.

You'd be much better off supplying a socket from the lighting circuit though.

Have a 2 gang switch inside the door, one for the main ceiling lights and the other for your LEDs

Then when you walk into the kitchen at night the LED lights can be turned on, and the main lights don't have to be turned on.
 

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