How to cut these ?
- Thread starter Munroast
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D
Deleted member 174758
To make up these pieces means doing what is referred to as deeping cuts - cuts where the crown guard and possibly the riving knife need to be removed from the saw to achieve the cut. This obviously leaves the operator vulnerable to both a fully exposed blade and the danger of kickbacks. To make it safer to do these cuts on a circular saw bench I think I'd make up two tall fences, one to be fixed over the rip fence, thus:
the other to be clamped down onto the bed of the saw bench, like this:
The left hand fence ideally needs to be fixed down to the top of the sawsomehow (T-slpot?), but failing that there would need to be some way of securing it to prevent it from moving, such as maybe a couple of rare earth magnets combined with fore and aft "hooks" and G-clamps:
To make the cut the saw blade gets tilted over by 5° and I think I'd make the back (underside) cuts first, then the fences would need to be adjusted and the top side cuts could be made. I think two push sticks will be required to control the material as it goes through the saw. oneto push and one to hold down. Because of the nature of the cut these is still a chance that waste material can be ejected towards the operator, so standing to one side is highly advisable
Hopefully these simplified drawings should be clear enough to explain. Obviously the fence needs to be the same height or slightly higher then the width of the timber being processed and the fences need to be set the same distance apart as the thickness of the material beimg fed in
I have used this type of fence set-up on a table saw to do plain (vertical) deeping cuts, in the absence of a band saw (which is probably an easier way to do the top/outer cuts), but the saw used in that case was a sliding carraige panel saw which had two T-slots in the top of the carraige - so LH fence location and holding down was pretty easy.
I realise that this type of fence takes a lot of material, much of which should come from the offcuts bin, but at least it is a lot safer and if done correctly will hopefully get you past the HSE, should they turn up.
the other to be clamped down onto the bed of the saw bench, like this:
The left hand fence ideally needs to be fixed down to the top of the sawsomehow (T-slpot?), but failing that there would need to be some way of securing it to prevent it from moving, such as maybe a couple of rare earth magnets combined with fore and aft "hooks" and G-clamps:
To make the cut the saw blade gets tilted over by 5° and I think I'd make the back (underside) cuts first, then the fences would need to be adjusted and the top side cuts could be made. I think two push sticks will be required to control the material as it goes through the saw. oneto push and one to hold down. Because of the nature of the cut these is still a chance that waste material can be ejected towards the operator, so standing to one side is highly advisable
Hopefully these simplified drawings should be clear enough to explain. Obviously the fence needs to be the same height or slightly higher then the width of the timber being processed and the fences need to be set the same distance apart as the thickness of the material beimg fed in
I have used this type of fence set-up on a table saw to do plain (vertical) deeping cuts, in the absence of a band saw (which is probably an easier way to do the top/outer cuts), but the saw used in that case was a sliding carraige panel saw which had two T-slots in the top of the carraige - so LH fence location and holding down was pretty easy.
I realise that this type of fence takes a lot of material, much of which should come from the offcuts bin, but at least it is a lot safer and if done correctly will hopefully get you past the HSE, should they turn up.
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D
Deleted member 174758
As an afterthought, assuming that you cut the V- (hollow/under) side first, you may also need to add an additional guide piece added to the left fence to help control the material when making the outer/top cuts
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