How to detail soakers and flashing where a roof extends beyond the abutment wall (at lowest point)?

[DIYNotIan]

Hi all

I'm going to be stripping slates and putting in new lead soakers with a flashing next week. It's a stone wall, so the flashing will be a straight diagonal line, parallel to the top of the roof.

At the bottom, the roof extends beyond the wall by a few inches. What's the normal way to detail that? I've had a look online but not been able to find anything....

Many thanks

 

[23vc]

A little bit of undercloak on some fascia and. pointed verge, and the flashing upstand gets folded round the corner a bit ?

 

[DIYNotIan]

Many thanks for the reply, but not sure I follow that.

Also, maybe I didn't explain things clearly? So I've got some photos in case my description made no sense! Ignore the plastic, turned up lead, hessian, etc. Hopefully can still get an idea of what's going on even with that cr@p in the way!

Cheers

 

[23vc]

Sorry, slightly misunderstood what you meant. Can’t explain it very well without being there looking at it, but I think you’d do a combination of extending the flashing upstand round the corner before stopping it, continue the soakers and dressing over the “exposed” slate verge beyond the wall. If the roof continued further down, that would then transition to a normal verge. Tried to Google image it as it’s a fairly common detail but failed. Others will probably give a better explanation…

 

[DIYNotIan]

I think that makes sense. And I know what you mean - these things are hard to explain! Perhaps someone might have an example photo from work they've done or even from their own house.

So if I've understood correctly...

- Turn the flashing 90 degrees so that it bends round to the main house wall (to stop water getting behind the run of flashing on the abutment wall)....
- Continue the soaker upstand down to the gutter, but perhaps bend it over so that it is only half the height, and so that it is double thickness and able to stand easier without a wall behind it...
- And then perhaps a second piece of lead under the overshooting slate and turned downward to cover the small piece of exposed verge (the bits marked red in the photos below).

Does that sound about right?

And if so is the lead alone on those small exposed verges enough or do I need to replacing the uPVC which is now too small (render was removed, hence why it is too small now).

Huge thanks for the help

 

[23vc]

The upvc would stay visible and everything sits on top of it. Imagine the roof continues down and doesn’t stop there - the top of the upvc fascia would have undercloak on top then the mortared verge. But in your case that verge is very short and covered in lead. I can’t really make out what’s going on in the second pic but probably same idea

 

[DIYNotIan]

OK - I'll see if I have some uPVC that's big enough to replace what's there in pic 1 and to put in place for pic 2. And then just dress to lead over the very top of it to prevent any water getting in behind?

the top of the upvc fascia would have undercloak on top then the mortared verge.

Interesting you should say that. I was going to save this for another time but seeing as you brought it up.... None of my verges around the house have undercloak or mortar. The slates appear to just sit atop the bargeboard. Without being invasive it's hard to see what's going on underneath. But due to the way the slates sit on top of each other in a double lap, I have wondered in the past whether there should be something there to stop critters getting in, and to weather it properly too I guess. Other house I've looked at with slate seem to often be finished in the same way at the verge.

What is the correct way to do it?

In my case, my bargeboards are wood with uPVC cover....

Many thanks

 

[23vc]

In that case forget the undercloak and mortared verge. But the slate should overhang the barge board, so the bottom slates may need to project further across in order to cover the barge board and extend beyond it, which may mean L shaped cuts

 

[DIYNotIan]

extending the flashing upstand round the corner before stopping it

Just thinking about this again...

Presumably because the lead has come down the diagonal wall, when I wrap it round the corner to the other wall it will have to continue to be diagonal down that wall too. Would you then cover that with another small bit of straight/horizontal lead so it's in keeping? And if so, would you chase that bit in?

If that makes no sense I'll edit the photo to show what I mean.

Ta

 

[23vc]

You could do that yeah, but you’d want to do the horizontal return first, then lap the section that runs up the wall, over it round the corner.

 

[23vc]

If you Google pictures of flashing around an external corner (like on a chimney) you’re doing something slightly similar to that, as your slate will also extend round the corner a bit

 

[23vc]

I assume whatever was there before you stripped the old roof doesn’t help ?

 

[DIYNotIan]

Many thanks for all your help with this.

In photo 2 I'm pretty sure there was nothing else there, the lead was just upturned a bit neater than how it looks now. The difference was that the wall was rendered, so the gap you see between the uPVC and wall (now filled with plastic) was taken up by the thickness of the render.

As for photo 1, I can't remember. I'll have to see if i can find any old photos...

Cheers

 

[23vc]

You probably want something like this, but the yellow line is your new verge. Cr@p pic but may help slightly.

 

[DIYNotIan]

Thanks so much for mocking that up. You've been a great help and only hope I can return the favour one day! Cheers