How to identify number of levers in a mortice lock for former coal bunker tongue and groove door on a council built property

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Hi there to everybody on DIY NOT message to mods if there's already a discussion for the issue I have: I've moved properties in kirklees council area and got a old coal bunker as my outside storage shed and I tried some keys with one square notch cut on the key I'm wondering is my lock a 1 lever 2 lever or possibly a 3 lever mortice internal lock anyone ? I tried but unsuccessfully broke the key my dad had for his old coal bunker lock as I wasent sure if this key my dad gave me would open the levers on the lock mechanism here is a picture of my lock with the back plate unscrewed. Could anyone advise me on here which way the spring engages onto the levers as well as I'm quite sure it curls around one of the rivets in the lock casing but I'm not sure where the spring edges engage.
20240718_011850.jpg
 
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It looks to be a one-lever (tumbler) warded rimlock.

I think the spring might hook over the top of that tab. This will squeeze the two half-levers together.

Very insecure but it seems to have quite a substantial case.

If you want a similar one I recommend an FB lock.

Will you have anything valuable in there?

Do you want a slam lock, or one you have to lock with a key?
 
This one is very good value. It has a slam action to latch. On the inside you can open it with the rectangular "knob" but from the outside you need a key.

 
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It looks to be a one-lever (tumbler) warded rimlock.

I think the spring might hook over the top of that tab. This will squeeze the two half-levers together.

Very insecure but it seems to have quite a substantial case.

If you want a similar one I recommend an FB lock.

Will you have anything valuable in there?

Do you want a slam lock, or one you have to lock with a key?
Hi there JohnD yes I do keep wouldn't say valuable but worth a few quid to bike thieves a few mountain bike tyres and spares like cassettes brake parts and spare saddles in my junk box for my 2 mountain bikes I own my rocky mountain bike and a helium double suspension bike luckily though I keep the bikes in my flat.
Im wondering though could you send me a image of the same 1 lever mortice lock demonstrating how the spring is engaged into the lever mechanism so then at least I can put the dam thing back together and find a locksmith to cut me the correct key for it if that's possible.
I've already got 1 asp and staple lock and a bolt and padlock on the bottom of the tongue groove wood door so they can't pull it from the bottom I only want the mortice lock on as extra security as the area I live in is quite rough and noted for thefts in rawthorpe huddersfield I'm also thinking of putting phillips screws in the hinges and drilling the crosshead out so they can't get the hinges off the door as well as that's another way thieves can break in these coal door sheds if I ever decide to store my mountain bike in there anyhow John D thanks for your advice.
 
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I haven't got a pic of that sort of lock. It is usually found in pressed steel shed locks of the lowest quality. Note that the key can be inserted either way up. If you have tools in there you need something better. Rather than pay a locksmith to cut a key you could buy the one I linked. They usually retail for around £25 but you can sometimes pick up a stock clearance one cheap (as linked). An alternative would be a padlock and hasp, but a decent one would cost far more. The lock should be on the inside of the door so screws are not accessible. You can also bolt through with coach bolts which have a nut on the inside but on the outside the head of the bolt has a dome with no slot or cross. I will look for a link for a comparable deadlock. I don't know how much you are willing to spend. There are not many decent rimlocks around and a good one costs far more. A mortise lock needs a thicker door and some carpentry ability but can be cheap to buy.
 
This is the nearest I can find but it has a pressed steel case, not as good as the one I linked before.


Occasionally bargains crop up.
 
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No luck

But here is an example of a good one, retail. You can probably make out that it has the thick cast alloy case which will not rust or bend like the cheaper pressed steel ones.


Very rarely you might find one in clearance.

And this is a similar one used on substations. You have practically no chance of getting one cheap. But it shows you what a good one looks like.
 
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