How to join pine boards => furniture

[boghog]

Sorry for the daft question, I am a complete beginner at this and I want to build a shelf unit. I have all the boards (18mm thick) in the right sizes and I don't know what is the best way to join the boards at 90 degrees: should I screw them in (do I risk splitting the board when it goes in along the grain?) or should I glue them? Or do I need to find some sort of L brackets? That is easiest to do and sturdy enough to hold some weight?
Thank you

 

[chirpychippy]

Hello, right to build this properly need 2"10 screws a pilot drill a counter sink and glue "I would use biscuits as well, but won't go into this as your a beginner" If you pilot the holes prior to screwing then board shouldn't split it also gives a better finish if you counter sink as well. Make sure when you do the screws up it pulls the join nice and tight and wipe of any excess glue which will be squeezed out.

Once you have top bottom and sides assembled lay the unit on its face and check it for square by measuring the diagonals "opposite corner to opposite corner" if the two measurements are the same then the unit is square if not move the sides until becomes square then fix the back panel to keep it square, fit shelves "bobs your uncle yiu have a book case".

 

[big-all]

good sound advice above
i personally countersink the sides but don't pilot the shelves and get a split rate off less than 1% that includes 2screws into 2x1[21x43mm]at roughly 12and 31mm although i do tend to use no8s but often 10s

on shelves off say 7" i will use 3 screws at around 1" 3" and 5" the exact position is not important

mark the sides up in pairs to allow easy shelve installation

are you rebating or flush mounting the back
free standing or wall mounted

 

[boghog]

Hello, right to build this properly need 2"10 screws a pilot drill a counter sink and glue "I would use biscuits as well, but won't go into this as your a beginner" If you pilot the holes prior to screwing then board shouldn't split it also gives a better finish if you counter sink as well. Make sure when you do the screws up it pulls the join nice and tight and wipe of any excess glue which will be squeezed out.

Once you have top bottom and sides assembled lay the unit on its face and check it for square by measuring the diagonals "opposite corner to opposite corner" if the two measurements are the same then the unit is square if not move the sides until becomes square then fix the back panel to keep it square, fit shelves "bobs your uncle yiu have a book case".

Thank you, this is just what I needed to know. The one thing that puzzles me a bit is how would I move the sides, once screwed&glued in?

 

[boghog]

good sound advice above
i personally countersink the sides but don't pilot the shelves and get a split rate off less than 1% that includes 2screws into 2x1[21x43mm]at roughly 12and 31mm although i do tend to use no8s but often 10s

on shelves off say 7" i will use 3 screws at around 1" 3" and 5" the exact position is not important

mark the sides up in pairs to allow easy shelve installation

are you rebating or flush mounting the back
free standing or wall mounted

Thank you.
I didn't think much about the back, I was just going to cut the hardboard at the full length. Is that the standard practice?
I will go with free standing as it is deep enough to hold itself together, or so I think.

 

[big-all]

not exactly sure why you want to move the sides
once its made its permanent and not adjustable or flat packable

 

[boghog]

not exactly sure why you want to move the sides
once its made its permanent and not adjustable or flat packable

That is exactly what I thought. Sorry, I misunderstood your initial post. Having read it again, it makes more sense. I will double check it is square before screwing and glueing it

 

[big-all]

Thank you.
I didn't think much about the back, I was just going to cut the hardboard at the full length. Is that the standard practice?
I will go with free standing as it is deep enough to hold itself together, or so I think.

i normally rebate the back but if you dont have a router and table saw best to go for a back panel about 10mm less all round and set it back 5mm from the edge go for 6mm[5.5] ply

 

[boghog]

Thank you. So is ply better than hardboard? And can I paint over it?

 

[big-all]

hardboard is too thin and with a bit off a bash may be knocked off
and yes its wood so can be painted

 

[boghog]

Excellent!
Thank you. I get the feeling this is going to be a success
I will post photos as soon as it's done

 

[foxhole]

If painting mdf back gives a better finish, you can re-enforce joints from below with plastic blocks [set back from front edge you won't see them]if it's to hold a lot of weight.

 

[boghog]

to build this properly need 2"10 screws

Sorry, one last clarification please: what do you mean by 2" 10 screws? Do you mean 2 inch long and 10 mm wide? isn't that too much for an 18mm board?
Thanks

 

[regsmyth]

The 10mm refers to the diameter of the head, which is generally about twice the diameter of the shank.

 

[big-all]

no10x2" imperial metric equivillent is 5mmx50mm
these are the ones i use
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scr...ountersunk+Pozi+Screw+2+x+10/d90/sd850/p17199