How to lay laminate around doorcase?

[gcol]

OK folks, here's the plan. I'm laying laminate flooring throughout the upstairs (including stairs). Below is the layout (excuse the 2 minute paint drawing).

Right, i've laid the flooring horizontally (as you look at the pic) in bed 1, starting at the doorway threshold and worked upwards.
Once I've done the stairs, I'm going to be doing the landing and bed 2. The thing is that for continuity I want to run the boards (again horizontally as you look at the pic) from the landing into bed 2 in one strip (i.e. no threshold trim). I've cut away the bottom of the door casing in bed 1 and planned to do the same on bed 2, but can't work out how i'll get the boards underneath the casing on the corner of the bathroom wall. You have to lift the boards so that they click in place. Hope it is clear what the problem is. Any ideas?

 

[Diyisfun]

Can you not cut the tongue & groove at the point where it goes under the wall/door, as this will only be a small missing portion the board should remain in place as long as you are using a long board. I did similar when I was laying boards into a walk in cupboard.

 

[big-all]

if your talking chipboard or mdf laminate as opposed to solid wood laminate
you must have an expansion gap around all edges in every room with expansion where rooms meet otherwise your building up problems as the moisture content changes


with laminate 6mm is faily standard around rooms so at your threashold strips your looking at 12mm

now in the practicle real world you can get away with slightly less [but will negate your gaurentees as your not fitting to instructions]
you should allow a minimum off 1mm per foot or 4mm per m so your probably talking 8 or 9mm under your threashold strips as you have a hall one side
but you will still need them for expansion

 

[gcol]

Diyisfun, the problem is not keeping it in place.
My understanding is that around the bottom of the door case, you need to cut away so that the laminate can slide under it for a neat finish whilst still allowing some play for expansion. This isn't a problem if you run the boards inline with the door, but if you want to run them at 90° to the door and through the opening in a continuous run then how do you get the boards under the casing at both sides?

 

[gcol]

Thanks big-all, are you saying that I can't do full length run? It's only 13 feet. And yes it's mdf laminate - Tough LOC from B&Q.
Obviously it would be easier to fit round the casing if I put a threshold strip in, but will it really be necessary? I think it'd look better without.

 

[2scoops0406]

Note entirely sure I understand, but when our laminate was laid by pro's "hopefully", they used one of these to trim the door reveals. Any help?

 

[gcol]

Thanks Eddie, but that's not what I'm after.
Imagine if you will that you wanted to run some laminate flooring through a doorway at right angles to the door and you didn't want to use a threshold strip.
Ok. Say i've cut away the bottom of the door casing (frame not door) at both sides to allow the laminate (and underlay) to neatly slip under the frame like this:

Right now, I start laying the laminate at one side of the door frame and therefiore slip it under the frame. The next length needs to clip into the one I've already laid at an upright angle and then when you lower it, it locks into place. The problem I've got is that when I reach the other side of the door frame, because I want the laminate to go under the frame, it has to be longer than the space between the previous board and the frame and will not go down - like this:

Is that any clearer?

 

[big-all]

13ft is that the total run including bedroom and hall!!!

looking at the undercutting [very neat by the way ] i hope youve left enough clearance "out of site" for expansion

all i can say is
if you choose not to insert an expansion gap at doors any expansion in the bedroom in the door area will push upward as theres no where to expand to and your nicely fitting door with just enough clearence will rub the top off the printed paper off in no time

you can go without expansion gaps and hope for the best if its a smallish span [have done several under protest] but at £50 a pop if a return visit is required to cut out 10mm and fit a threashold strip [priced high to deter and make it worth the trouble and possible loss of reputation]

the failure rate is about 70% just depends on several things like floor area floor loading [restricting expansion in other directions]ect

 

[WoodYouLike]

The problem I've got is that when I reach the other side of the door frame, because I want the laminate to go under the frame, it has to be longer than the space between the previous board and the frame and will not go down -

Best way 'around' this problem is to cut of the 'click' bit of the last board, leaving you with a tiny tongue and groove. Cut the board to the width you need, slide it underneath the doorpost and back onto the last board already installed. For better fixing use some PVAC glue in the groove before you slot the last board in place.
(This is the most common 'problem' with a click-system )

Hope this helps

 

[gcol]

So I cut most of the "lip" part away and then glue it in place once down? That sounds like a good idea.
Cheers

 

[WoodYouLike]

Most good ideas are simple
(well, everything is simple once you know them)