How to move a PIR without setting off the tamper alarm?

[RigidRaider]

Hi. I've tried a search but no luck. We are removing an internal stud wall and will need to relocate a PIR. How can I remove this from the alarm circuit temporarily while we move the cable and wait for the plasterer to finish? My electrical expertise extends to changing switches and sockets, fixing my Landy and other simple tasks.

Thanks!

 

[davelx]

I just phone up the monitoring station, have the system put on customer test for an hour so they ignore the tamper alarm, disconnect the pir, twist the tamper loop wires together and insulate with tape. Then reset the system.

Whilst the PIR is removed, either use the panel keypad to omit the circuit on setting, or also twist the alarm loop wires together (or via the resistor if there is one) to close the loop.

Reverse process to replace PIR

 

[Lectrician]

If it's a monitored system you should get the company you have the mainenance agreement with to do the move.

If it's a simple bells on system, then you can silence the tamper alarm with your code usually (unless who ever installed/prog'ed the system omitted this ability - very rare to ever see this done).

If you know the eng code, you can enter this and go to the programming menu. When in the programming menu, all tampers are isolated.

Don't short the DC supply to the PIR, as this will blow a fuse in the panel, and often the same fuse supplies power to your SAB outside, which will then trigger from it's internal battery until you replace the fuse!

 

[RigidRaider]

Thanks! I think I'm with you both.... ours is a simple system so I should be able to omit the zone, open the PIR and twist the tamper wires together, then re-activate the system, right?

What colour should the tamper circuit be?

How would I omit the PIR without actually setting the system? This is an Accenta G3, by the way. The hand book doesn't tell me how to do this.

 

[simon_d]

What colour should the tamper circuit be?

could be any colour. altho its common for green and white. youll soon find out once you remove the PIR cover

 

[breezer]

99% of panels omiting it will do no good, since tampers are designed to be on 24 / 7.

take the pir cover off, (alarm internal sounder will go) enter your code, note my signature, cut wires off (close to the terminals) remove wires, stip and twist tamper pair, strip and twis alarm pair, put chock bloc on each.

you cut them off so you can not short any out

 

[RigidRaider]

Thanks again. Too late unfortunately - while removing skirting board last night I noted a nail which, when moved, also caused the cable running vertically through the studwork to move. The nail was obviously through or in close contact with the cable.

Now this morning while carefully demolishing studwork around the cable, I tugged the cable gently and it promptly snapped at the point where the nail had been. Close examination shows the sheath has been damaged by the nail and one of the three or four inners cut right through.

The panel sounded its internal alarm, we stopped that and now it's showing a PA light as well as Day and Power. Could this have been the cable running to the bedside panic bitton, also nearby?

Looks like a job for a professional now!

 

[breezer]

why?

just extend the cable to where it was, using the same colours, and solder the joints. since any alrm engineer will have to do that anyway, why dont you try it first?

 

[Belle427]

either that or re new the cable yourself,pa terminals are marked inside the panel and use 2 cores,simple

 

[Lectrician]

either that or re new the cable yourself,pa terminals are marked inside the panel and use 2 cores,simple

No, the PA is a zone type usually, so will be connected to Z1, Z2, Z3, Z4 etc. It will also have a tamper loop, which is he cores damaged, as the panel is currently indicating a tamper.

 

[Belle427]

on the g3s ive wired the pa buttons dont incorporate a tamper circuit into them and connect to dedicated terminals on the circuit board because they operate in day mode as well as set

 

[Lectrician]

Not familiar with the accenta - I stear clear of it TBH.

You are probably correct, although the tamper light is still on.

 

[RigidRaider]

Thanks again. There only seemed to be 2 wires connected in the cable, one of which had been damaged or even cut by the nail. Possibly the nail was making the circuit. That would fit with what ch427 says; the bedroom panic button with no tamper circuit. The PA is lit, not the TA.

So now, if I reconnect and solder the two wires, what happens next at the control panel? Can I just reset it?

 

[breezer]

yep

 

[RigidRaider]

Fixed it! I re-routed the cable then cannibalised an unused length from under the floor to make up the foot or so of gap I needed to fill. Had a bit of eye-strain trying to make out the colours (4 wires, colour with tracer, joined all 4 as I didn't know which are active) then doing the soldering lying on the floor but I'm pleased to tell you it all works. Did a walkround test just to prove it too.

Forums like this are a boon for people who are capable of doing these simple jobs but lack the confidence. And this frees up the professionals from time-wasting and unprofitable work as well.

Thanks to those who gave encouragement!