How to properly repaint staircase that's already been painted in the past?

[Mr Sparkle]

Two years ago, I painted my wooden stair case (pine and ply) with Zinsser Bin & Dulux Trade Satinwood (oil based).

Overall the paint job is still in great condition. However, high wear areas e.g. tread nosing and newel post are looking tatty and are in need of touching up.

Can any of the experience painters please advise on the best way to properly touch up/ repaint these areas?

 

[footprints]

Redo the lot, satinwood oil based yellows with age, so you will not get a colour match I'm afraid.
If it is just the hand rail and newell post that are worn just do them the spindles being darker will not notice.

 

[opps]

Two years ago, I painted my wooden stair case (pine and ply) with Zinsser Bin & Dulux Trade Satinwood (oil based).

Overall the paint job is still in great condition. However, high wear areas e.g. tread nosing and newel post are looking tatty and are in need of touching up.

Can any of the experience painters please advise on the best way to properly touch up/ repaint these areas?

You can use the same paints again. Don't forget to lightly sand the areas to repainted.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Redo the lot, satinwood oil based yellows with age, so you will not get a colour match I'm afraid.
If it is just the hand rail and newell post that are worn just do them the spindles being darker will not notice.

I would never paint high wear areas, much better to stain/varnish them - wear doesn't show then.

 

[DiyNutJob]

Go water based, then you can touch up without having to mess about blending with the rest. I tried some Johnston's aqua guard and it feels like a tough paint. Given touching up is easy with this, I don't think it matters too much about the wear. If it wears, you can touch it up in a jiffy.

Keep paint in 2 litre cola bottles. Oil paint and water primer last in them forever. I am still testing them for water paints. Will know in 5 years.

 

[footprints]

Go water based, then you can touch up without having to mess about blending with the rest. I tried some Johnston's aqua guard and it feels like a tough paint. Given touching up is easy with this, I don't think it matters too much about the wear. If it wears, you can touch it up in a jiffy.

Keep paint in 2 litre cola bottles. Oil paint and water primer last in them forever. I am stilling testing them for water paints. Will know in 5 years.

Johnstones Aqua is my go to for water based, but use their undercoat.

 

[DiyNutJob]

Johnstones Aqua is my go to for water based, but use their undercoat.

I am testing screwfix wood primer. Rough finish but seems to work. The roughness probably gave it a very strong key.

 

[opps]

Go water based, then you can touch up without having to mess about blending with the rest. I tried some Johnston's aqua guard and it feels like a tough paint. Given touching up is easy with this, I don't think it matters too much about the wear. If it wears, you can touch it up in a jiffy.

Keep paint in 2 litre cola bottles. Oil paint and water primer last in them forever. I am still testing them for water paints. Will know in 5 years.

Any paint over a 10% sheen level will leave a visible halo effect if you try to touch it in. In poor light, you probably won't be able to see it though.

I don't quite understand why you are decanting tins of paint in to cola bottles.

 

[DiyNutJob]

Any paint over a 10% sheen level will leave a visible halo effect if you try to touch it in. In poor light, you probably won't be able to see it though.

I am not sensitive to wood grains, brush marks, or less than minor difference in patched wood paint. I am very sensitive to caulk cracks. You are the opposite.

 

[Mr Sparkle]

Redo the lot, satinwood oil based yellows with age, so you will not get a colour match I'm afraid.
If it is just the hand rail and newell post that are worn just do them the spindles being darker will not notice.

It's oil based satin wood in black.

Go water based, then you can touch up without having to mess about blending with the rest. I tried some Johnston's aqua guard and it feels like a tough paint. Given touching up is easy with this, I don't think it matters too much about the wear. If it wears, you can touch it up in a jiffy.

Keep paint in 2 litre cola bottles. Oil paint and water primer last in them forever. I am still testing them for water paints. Will know in 5 years.

Water based on stairs? Really? Is that a good idea?

The whole reason I went for oil based in the first place is due to its durability/toughness

Can water based paint take heavy use from everyday staircase use?

I would never paint high wear areas, much better to stain/varnish them - wear doesn't show then.

Good point.

To be fair, the only parts that are showing wear are the thread nosing and newell posts. However, I always expected this as these are the arears that'll take the most punishment.

I like the look of black painted stairs, so would something like stair nosing edge trim be a good idea?

 

[DiyNutJob]

Water based on stairs? Really? Is that a good idea?

Donno. That's what I will do. I will be covering all oil paints with water paint for easy maintenance. I like it when wear costs minimum effort.