How to reduce chipboard floor creaking?

[muffking]

Later this week I will be stripping my daughters bedroom ready for decorating and hopefully doing something to reduce the creaking floor in our 2001 house with the green chipboard floor boards.

The question is how?

I can't be sure if it's the joins between the boards or the floor against the super thin joists.
I wouldn't rule out lifting the floor, although it would be a pain as the boards go under the walls and any pipework I've come up against here in the past is butted right up to the boards. Is over boarding an option are are there better ways?

 

[sircerebus666]

Go crazy with an impact driver and a s*** lot of screws

Is the flooring nailed down? And where does it squeak the most? In the middle of the boards or on the tongue and groove?

 

[muffking]

Cheers.
A builder did that in the bathroom when we had a new suite fitted. I wasn't sure if it was because he was laying tiles.

When I get the carpet up I'll know for sure exactly where the creaking is. I know that they are nailed down, so do you think it's just a case of pulling the whole floor up to locate pipes & cable and then screw it all down properly?

 

[sircerebus666]

As you're going to be lifting the floor best practise is to glue the boards together and glue the floor to the joists and then screw down

I find single thread screws best for this as they give a good solid fix

 

[muffking]

Sounds like a plan.
Is there any particular type of glue that I should be using or is it just general wood glue?

 

[sircerebus666]

Not really , I prefer using wood glue cause it's so strong and others prefer using things like sticks like s***, no more nails , gripfill and the like

 

[muffking]

Cheers. I'll see what there is for the caulk gun as I'm not a fan of No Nails as it sets hard and sometimes can be brittle.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Is there any particular type of glue that I should be using or is it just general wood glue?

D4 PVA is what many chipboard flooring manufacturers such as Egger recommend. BTW just to clarify that is not polyurethane (Gorilla) glue. You need a minimum of D3 (moisture resistant) and ideally a D4 (moisture proof) for this sort of task, not just any old wood glue or a construction adhesive such as GripFill

 

[muffking]

Lovely.
I'm thinking a couple of bottles of this Evo-Stick wood glue which is D4, assuming 2 litres of glue isn't overkill for the joins and where the boards sit on the joists.
www.screwfix.com/p/evo-stik-wood-adhesive-interior-1ltr/37901

Screw wise, a 200 pack of 5x50mm as I seem to remember the boards are somewhere between 12-18mm.
www.screwfix.com/p/goldscrew-pz-double-countersunk-multipurpose-screws-5-x-50mm-200-pack/16497


Weirdly the links don't work unless you copy & paste to a new page.

 

[JohnD]

is it the Blue bottle you're looking at? I use that for outdoor or damp work. And the green one for dry.

I didn't know the D3/D4 clasification.

The link isn't working correctly (not your fault)

 

[muffking]

Well spotted, I can't edit the links, but it's the green bottle.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

The green stuff is D2. The blue stuff is D3. For D4 look at Everbuild D4 glue on Toolstation (SFX don't sell a similar product AFAIK). That's what we use. You might be surprised at how much you use - it's best not to be too stingy with it. You can get the Caberdecor D4 flooring glue, but it costs 1.5 times as much and is no better IMHO. Sorry I can't post a link, but it's a bit of a faff when I'm posting on a phone!