how to repair blown render on a timber framed house
- Thread starter katdeeley
- Start date
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I'd have thought, just normal cement render would be okay.
T
thatbloke
how old is the house? use lime based render on a timber framed house , cement will hold in moisture and cause the frame to rot. cement render can be devastating to a timber framed house.
older houses will have laths to fix the render onto. these are expensive but there are other methods , breathable boards etc etc.
is the blown render cracked at all?
older houses will have laths to fix the render onto. these are expensive but there are other methods , breathable boards etc etc.
is the blown render cracked at all?
agree if it's breathable you want then only lime render will do.
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As an aside - trying to learn a bit here - shouldn't it be okay to cover a timber frame with building paper (or similar) and mesh, and then render with waterproof render ( mono couche, s&c, Sto etc) if there is a cavity to allow the timber to breathe? We have rendered hundreds of timber framed dwellings using a variety of combinations and AFAIK no problems with damp or timber rotting ( rough as a badgers behind obviously, but no damp or rot!)
T
thatbloke
it can happen in different ways , for instance , a timber framed house will move around , especially if it is old and has very little in the way of foundations. my own timber framed house (16c) has around 6 inches of its brick plinth below ground , just sat ontop of clay.
so , when the building moves the cement render doesn't and it cracks , moisture gets through these cracks and cannot escape thus causing a damp environment ar4ound the timber frame. lime render has a certain elasticity and it moves with the building so if dont properly , usually with hair it should remain weather tight.
another reason for rot is , if the walls are designed to breath , any moisture coming from below and rising up the wall will have no where to go , again this will rot the frame. this is especially apparent when people put a DPC in a building that should have a breathable floor. this forces moisture out to the walls that would otherwise have evaporated through the floor , the walls act like a wick sucking it up. now if the walls are sealed the moisture again has nowhere to go and the timber frame gets damaged.
i am at present having to remove 30 years of cement render and DPC'S from a 16c timber framed cottage. it stood for around 500 years with no problems until 30 odd years ago when someone decided to 'modernise' it with nice cement render.
i now have a whole wall of rotten studs to repair and 3 sole plates to replace as well as work to the brick plinth , ive had 60% of a clay lump extension disintegrate through moisture and frost damage and an old tudor inglenook that was cement rendered has crumbled into oblivion , i now have to get bricks especially made to repair this.
cement and old timber framed houses spells disaster for the house.
http://www.heritage-house.org/oakframing.html
this forum is worth checking out.
http://www.periodproperty.co.uk/forum/viewforum.php?f=1
its off line at the moment though.
so , when the building moves the cement render doesn't and it cracks , moisture gets through these cracks and cannot escape thus causing a damp environment ar4ound the timber frame. lime render has a certain elasticity and it moves with the building so if dont properly , usually with hair it should remain weather tight.
another reason for rot is , if the walls are designed to breath , any moisture coming from below and rising up the wall will have no where to go , again this will rot the frame. this is especially apparent when people put a DPC in a building that should have a breathable floor. this forces moisture out to the walls that would otherwise have evaporated through the floor , the walls act like a wick sucking it up. now if the walls are sealed the moisture again has nowhere to go and the timber frame gets damaged.
i am at present having to remove 30 years of cement render and DPC'S from a 16c timber framed cottage. it stood for around 500 years with no problems until 30 odd years ago when someone decided to 'modernise' it with nice cement render.
i now have a whole wall of rotten studs to repair and 3 sole plates to replace as well as work to the brick plinth , ive had 60% of a clay lump extension disintegrate through moisture and frost damage and an old tudor inglenook that was cement rendered has crumbled into oblivion , i now have to get bricks especially made to repair this.
cement and old timber framed houses spells disaster for the house.
http://www.heritage-house.org/oakframing.html
this forum is worth checking out.
http://www.periodproperty.co.uk/forum/viewforum.php?f=1
its off line at the moment though.
Totally agree about the need to keep repairs and additions sympathetic to the original.
I assumed that the first post was referring to a new timber framed construction. While we have rendered loads of units (possibly hundreds), I can't see teh sense in having a timber construction clad in a more solid outer skin of bricks ,or render, or blocks and render etc Rendering means a 15mm movement joint under every cill etc and careful use of movement joints elswhere, rather than the traditional methods allowing the buliding to move together. The thought of having a more rigid, 'stronger' and heavier skin onto a more flexible lighter skin does not make sense to me.
All of that said, I have not yet come acrss any problems (cracking yes) due to damp or rot in the timber frame.
Indeed ( sorry to those who have one) I wish there were more problems with them as they cut out a load of work for brickies and spreads and to be honest the lack of quality does not in my view make up for the little gain in speed - and teh cost to the end user is largely unaffected ie still mad dear
I assumed that the first post was referring to a new timber framed construction. While we have rendered loads of units (possibly hundreds), I can't see teh sense in having a timber construction clad in a more solid outer skin of bricks ,or render, or blocks and render etc Rendering means a 15mm movement joint under every cill etc and careful use of movement joints elswhere, rather than the traditional methods allowing the buliding to move together. The thought of having a more rigid, 'stronger' and heavier skin onto a more flexible lighter skin does not make sense to me.
All of that said, I have not yet come acrss any problems (cracking yes) due to damp or rot in the timber frame.
Indeed ( sorry to those who have one) I wish there were more problems with them as they cut out a load of work for brickies and spreads and to be honest the lack of quality does not in my view make up for the little gain in speed - and teh cost to the end user is largely unaffected ie still mad dear
hi thankyou all for your comments the house was built approx 1700, it only needs patching where the render has blown in places, please could anyone advise the mix of lime render, is it something you can buy in a bag like cement is?
Also where the render has cracked what is the best way of reparing the crack and trying to stop it cracking again? many thanks
Also where the render has cracked what is the best way of reparing the crack and trying to stop it cracking again? many thanks
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