How to repair old felt overhang into gutter

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I am trying to decide on the best way to do a repair on where the old roofing under tile felt comes over the wooden fascia board to the metal guttering,

I have pitch roof with old black pan tiles, the last row of tiles that overhang the fascia board are settled into roofing cement. The old roofing felt comes out under the cement, but over the fascia board, and into the metal guttering. The gutter is screwed directly onto the fascia, the top edge of the gutter is between 12 and 25 mm below the top edge of the facia, above which you have also have a variable amount of cement, however there is not very much space between the top edge of the gutter and the lowest part of the tiles.
Most of the old felt has now perished and broken away. Has anyone got any suggestions on the best way to repair this please?
I hope I have explained everything clearly enough, I can supply a photo if that is of help
Thank for any assistance
 
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theres loads of products on the market to sort this type of problem out.

take a look here for a selection.

remove the bottom couple of courses of tiles cut out the damaged/worn felt fit the new trays renew felt and retile.

kind of standard stuff really ;)
 
Hi, thanks for the reply, I wish it was that simple to remove a few tiles.

I should have pointed out that the last row are actually cemented down, and having had a quick count there are 220 of them. Previous attempts to lift any resulted in either part of the tile remaining on the cement or the tile breaking totally. Image attached
I am afraid that trying to remove all of those and the cement, then re fitting is quite a task. Also finding and matching the inevitable broken ones could be a problem too. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated


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How do you expect to replace felt without removing the tiles and the mortar fill? :rolleyes:

Take them off, do the job properly as per the previous post, and fit comb fillers instead of mortar
 
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first thing to do is source replacement tiles! they look quite old so reclamation yards would probably be your best bet.
hard to tell from pic if any modern equivalent would be compatible.

as woody said you really need to remove the first 2 or 3 courses to do the job properly, when the mortar infill is removed you will need to pack up the fascia board with some strapping to bring the fascia up to the proper height for the tiles to rest on prior to fitting the trays and eave comb filler units (or birdie stuff as we call it :D )

its a job worth doing properly as going by the pic the fascia is already starting to rot

tis up to yourself how you proceed.......as we say in Scotland its yoor hoose :LOL: .
 
Those tiles+wooden fascia+metal gutter= :cry: . You know, selling those tiles look like they might go a fair way £ towards a new roofcovering. That is unless it`s a listed building. See if you can get them at a salvage yard + how much each.
 
Cheers for the link- I might need some Iron. Broseley`s myself ;)
 
The other way is to remove both bottom rows and fix a row of slate tiles nailed to the wall board then bed with mortar the first row of tiles then replace second row. This will stop tile lift and any beasties getting in the void. Because there is enough room between the tile and the membrane which you must have renewed, any water that gets behind the tiles will soak away under the tile to the gutter. hope this helps, good luck
 
And then after the tiles move (which they will) and the mortar falls out and blocks the gutter, and the birds get in to roost?

No sorry, mortar is not the best thing to do
 
And then after the tiles move (which they will) and the mortar falls out and blocks the gutter, and the birds get in to roost?

No sorry, mortar is not the best thing to do
How will the tiles move? they are nailed to the wall plate ... oh not forgetting that the driving rain and wind will force the tiles off the battems with the birdie stuff, another thing, how come tiles split and shatter when they are removed from the mortar? c,mon instead of being negative come up with a solution... its easy to sit on the wall!
 
The whole roof moves naturally over the seasons, and tiles move slightly with the weather, and its just enough to crack the mortar.

Add the freeze/thaw action on the damp mortar, which is assisted by moisture draining from the sarking.

All this adds up to mortar being an inapropriate method for profiled tiles on fascia board
 
The whole roof moves naturally over the seasons, and tiles move slightly with the weather, and its just enough to crack the mortar.

Add the freeze/thaw action on the damp mortar, which is assisted by moisture draining from the sarking.

All this adds up to mortar being an inapropriate method for profiled tiles on fascia board

THE purpose of a mortar bedding is to stop tile lift from the first course! You still have not answered the simple question of stopping tile lift... using birdie stuff allows large gusts to uplift the tiles? in effect ripping large areas of the roof off. I have seen this happen many times over the years by not bedding the first course!!
 

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