How to seal sash parting bead

[Mmark]

We have very draughty newly installed windows. Supplier has agreed the gaps around the parting bead are too big. They will instead install larger parting beads, but they said they do not seal them.

I'm looking around and I cannot see any products that give a good seal all around the perimeter bead. Typically at best, it's just one one side. Has anyone seen good products, that might help?

I've attached a photo that shows what I think we should have. I've seen sone "DIY" versions of this, but just stick something in - I'm not sure it'll stay stuck... or will it?

 

[footprints]

You might find something here, but that's the age old problem with sash windows. UPVC ones do have seals but timber will tend to be a problem always as too little play will cause them to stick or be loose due to the humidity.

https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk...ical-sash-window-seals/filter/$s=window seals

 

[JohnD]

The furry pile strip will do the job. Some of it is like velvet for small gaps, or like a soft brush for bigger gaps. There is an adhesive type, and a type with a metal backing, and I see IronmongeryDirect have it on plastic strip. The pile easily squashes to fit the gap.

The adhesive type sticks well to clean paint that is fairly new. The metal backing type can be pinned in place on timber.

Not sold very widely because there are not so many vertical sliding sashes around.

I think I got mine on on Ebay from a supplier of glaziers sundries. I got a roll of it.

 

[Notch7]

you can buy parting bead and staff bead with the seal built in

try reddiseals or mighton

I cant see exactly from your pic what the issue is -can you elaborate or provide a pic

if they are newly supplied windows surely the manufacturer should be resolving.....

 

[troutybrown]

https://www.mightonproducts.com/pro...e/weatherstripping-beads/plastic-parting-bead

 

[Mmark]

you can buy parting bead and staff bead with the seal built in
try reddiseals or mighton
.

There are gaps on all three sides of the parting bead. Supplier has offered to make the parting bead bigger, to fill the gap. While the gap will be smaller, there will still be a gap.

I've seen the reddiseals and others. They put a strip on one side, which improves it, but it's not the same as ensuring all three sides are form a seal.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

If it starts out too tight two things will happen, firstly the next time the window is painted it will get painted shut, secondly in wet winter weather the swelling of the timber due to moisture in the atmosphere will jam the windows instead/as well. You are dealing with wood, not granite. Not saying that the gap can't be reduced, just that if it's removed completely there will be consequences

 

[gooseodyssey]

what did you do about this in the end? I have the same problem. I can always see a bit of light when I look down at the parting bead where the two sashes meet.

 

[JohnD]

Example

5M Self Adhesive Seal Door Window Strip Excluder Brush Seal Film Brush | eBay

Size: about 9 5mm, length: 5m. Applicable for all kinds of window, door, cabinet gap. Apply the seal strip to the window or door. Peel off the backing film. 1 sealing strip. Clean the surface. Due to the light and screen difference, the item's color may be slightly different from the pictures.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[foxhole]

Had brand new modern hardwood sashes installed in our offices, they had multiple seals and brushes but were still very draughty.

 

[mrrusty]

They don't need to be draughty. This is my mock-up section for a load I made. This doesn't show the double pile seal on the meeting rails which were added on the final windows. These are designed for internally beaded dry glazed 24mm DGU. As you see, clearances are tight, but this is accoya and humidity expansion is a non-issue.

 

[gooseodyssey]

Thanks. I could see lots of gaps and light around the parting bead, as seen here:

So I sealed the gaps using Schlegel seals. No more light coming through, so I think it's totally sealed.

My solution seems to work, but it's a bit of a "hack". Surely someone must have come up with a design or solution that completely seals sash windows where the meeting rail intersects with the parting bead?

I wanted this to be totally air tight for noise reasons.

 

[Deluks]

You won't get a sash window as airtight as a casement window, the design won't allow it, for them to slide up and down you need a little bit of play, too much seal would make them difficult to open.

I've known people to stuff bits of paper or cloth down the gaps, but in any case, I don't think that sealing that tiny gap will reduce noise to a huge amount, sash window construction is hollow in places, so there's not a lot of solid material between you and the outside world.

Secondary glazing internally would help solve your draught and noise problems. Get an openable one so you can access the sash window to wipe away the condensation, (although secondary glazing might solve that issue as well)

 

[gooseodyssey]

Thanks! Secondary glazing is essentially just an internal casement window, right? The condensation is usually fine, only if it's totally freezing do I get it a tiny bit.

 

[Deluks]

Thanks! Secondary glazing is essentially just an internal casement window, right? The condensation is usually fine, only if it's totally freezing do I get it a tiny bit.

It's not another window. It's usually a single glazed system in a lightweight frame.
I've never installed it myself but seen it in other people's houses and been impressed with the sound reduction. Some are hinged, some slide, some clip on and off.
There are companies that can supply it in kit form if you do the measuring yourself.