We recently changed our water cylinder to an unvented one. Our old drayton programmer was really old and melted (!) so I bought a new one but didn't change the background wiring. Since we had the cylinder installed our heating comes on when the hot water is heating unless I turn the thermostat right down. I am unsure if this is due ot the wiring of the programmer as there is nothing going into terminal 1 or 2. Could anyone shed light on what I need to do to fix this? Thanks!
How to wire drayton programmer (heating comes on with hot water)
- Thread starter frank82
- Start date
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Look for a motorised valve
Please photograph the pipes and cables and other items around your boiler, cylinder and pump
Look for a motorised valve
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I'd say full blast but hard to know for sure. Strangely the radiators in the bathroom used to come on warmish with water (I'd just assumed they were historically plumbed in wrong) but no other radiators in the house. Now all full blast I think!
Hopefully one of the experienced people will come back soon!
But just an obvious thing. Do you know the models of both the old and new programmers. If they are both Drayton, I would imagine they are wired the same. But it never hurts to check. Do they look like any of these?
But just an obvious thing. Do you know the models of both the old and new programmers. If they are both Drayton, I would imagine they are wired the same. But it never hurts to check. Do they look like any of these?
D
Deleted member 267285
What Drayton did you purchase? Can you get better photos of cylinder cupboard? I can only see one motorised valve but cabling for at least two.
Drayton LP722 it looked identical to my old one apart from being able to programme 7 days rather than just 1 day
I wasn't sure if you meant the airing cupboard which used to house our old cylinder and has the blue pump or the nextcto the cylinder but took both again.
I wasn't sure if you meant the airing cupboard which used to house our old cylinder and has the blue pump or the nextcto the cylinder but took both again.
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I have limited experience. But we had a string of similar problems and it was always a sticking motorised valve. BG eventually changed all three and there's been no problems since. So, it may be nothing to do with the changes you've made.
But to be a bit methodical; did you change the cylinder and the programmer at exactly the same time?
Also, just because I'm intrigued, how did the programmer get melted?
But to be a bit methodical; did you change the cylinder and the programmer at exactly the same time?
Also, just because I'm intrigued, how did the programmer get melted?
D
Deleted member 267285
Sounds like it could be a wiring fault or sticking valve as suggested. Have you contacted the cylinder installer?
OK thanks. The programmer got changed afterwards as the man who installed the cylinder said we should replace it. I don't see how it could be the programmer really but wanted to check it wasn't the wiring.
It was too close to the airfryer vent! Was ancient anyway and the buttons were sticking so needed changing
It was too close to the airfryer vent! Was ancient anyway and the buttons were sticking so needed changing
D
Deleted member 267285
To answer your OP about terminals 1 and 2, you don’t appear to have a y plan, so 1 isn’t used, and 2 is very rarely used.
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