Hyuundai i20 non starter

[233sqn]

Hello all

We have a 2010 Hyundai i20 that won't turn over (but starts on a push). Ignition comes on all lights work etc. but on turning the key to the start position there is nothing, no solenoid click or anything, but the headlights and fan etc will go to nothing and the little cigar lighter volt meter I'm using goes out completely.

Battery is less than 6 months old. I checked all connections and fuses and swapped the starter relay. Battery voltage was about 12.4... I charged it and it quickly went to 12.7 but it made no difference.

Any suggestions?

Thx!!

 

[Burnerman]

A typical battery fault I’m afraid......try a deep recovery charge over a few days, or try the car with a donor battery connected.
If you are happy with the battery condition, it could be a starter motor fault which has a direct short, once the ignition switch is turned.
John

 

[233sqn]

Thanks... would jump leading from another car be the same as using a donor battery? Or would i have to take the Hyundai battery out of the circuit completely to rule it out?

 

[Burnerman]

A donor car is fine - with its engine running when you attempt to start the Hyundai.
A small word of warning - some manufacturers say, due to the smart charging systems, not to connect the negative lead to the battery but rather to an earthing point nearby if there is one.
I'm not absolutely sure why this should be, but may as well get it right!
John

 

[EFLImpudence]

Interesting. I've often wondered why when hearing that.

As an electrician, it obviously makes no difference electrically to anything, where on the negative 'conductor', from battery to starter motor (i.e. battery negative cable >> body >> engine earth strap >> engine/starter motor), one connects the negative jump lead.
There should still be the same voltage at the battery terminals - when all connections are sound.

All I can think of is that connecting the negative lead directly to the engine would bypass any poor connections which might have caused poor starting, and flat battery, in the first place.

 

[Burnerman]

It is a curious one, I'll see if I can find anything about it!
On my motor, a Skoda Yeti, there is a negative jump lead connection close to the battery. Oddly, the battery negative terminal is easier to access than the jumping terminal
John

 

[rsgaz]

I've often wondered why

As I understand it, it used to matter when car batteries were vented, but now it's becoming a bit of an old wives' tale.

The last of the four connections is the one that sparks good 'n' proper of course! This should therefore be away from a vented battery, which could be emitting hydrogen gas, especially as it's the one you've just been trying over and over again to start the car with. Even ≈6 inches away and slightly below, i.e. the negative strap to the body, would be good enough in fresh air to not ignite any hydrogen I would imagine.

 

[Burnerman]

Here's a quote from Car Mechanics Magazine, January 2019:
'Vehicles that are equipped with battery condition monitoring tend to have the ECU mounted on the negative battery cable. This is why you must not attach a negative jump start lead directly to the terminal'.
So now we know!
John

 

[233sqn]

Thanks everyone for your replies. I tried a slave battery and suddenly everything was fine so I guess that pretty much rules out ignition switch, solenoid. starter connections fuses etc. Battery was still under warranty and Halfords didn't have a problem swapping it out, however as a matter of course they ran their own check on and it came out as "Ok"

 

[Burnerman]

The battery may well be OK, but of course we don't know at this time if the alternator is actually charging the battery up.
Its possible the alternator may be lazy (expect to see around 14.4 volts at the battery, engine running, lights on) for a reasonable test.
Its also possible that there could be a small continuous drain when the car is parked up......glove box lamp on or whatever.
Best to see what happens, but we appreciate the post back.
John

 

[233sqn]

Thanks everyone for your replies. I tried a slave battery and suddenly everything was fine so I guess that pretty much rules out ignition switch, solenoid. starter connections fuses etc. Battery was still under warranty and Halfords didn't have a problem swapping it out, however as a matter of course they ran their own check on and it came out as "Ok"

 

[233sqn]

Getting about 14.3 V with the engine running, and hopefully no slow drains having checked tailgate and glove box lamps. Should I expect the charging Voltage to tail off once the battery is fully charged?

 

[JohnD]

Battery is less than 6 months old

Did you buy and fit it yourself, or is that just what you were told? has it been standing, unused, for a while?

when I think of the time I've wasted hunting for faults and charging batts, I wish I'd just bought new ones.

 

[Burnerman]

Getting about 14.3 V with the engine running, and hopefully no slow drains having checked tailgate and glove box lamps. Should I expect the charging Voltage to tail off once the battery is fully charged?

The voltage should remain at around 14.4 so long as the engine is running.
Once switched off the voltage will decay then maintain around 13 for a time.
When starting up, the voltage when cranking shouldn't drop below 10.5 ideally.
John