I think I broke my boiler...

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So I usually turn it off at the actual boiler. When I need hot water I use the other electronic console to turn that on after turning the boiler back on, then the red thing above the console shows some digits.


This time I turned hot water from the console on before turning the boiler back on and it made a dodgy sound, maybe it would have failed anyway?

The boiler doesnt have a pressure gauge for some reason... and I dont understand what several things in the cupboard are at all like the thing at the bottom of the first picture that looks like it can be turned on and off. Or the thing at the bottom of the last picture that also looks like it can be turned on/off.
IMG_20220803_145531.jpg


IMG_20220803_144255.jpg



IMG_20220803_144306.jpg



I guess I was hoping I could fix it maybe diagnose a pressure problem and fix it wihout getting an engineer around. Thanks..
 
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The console (screen with the knob on it) looks like the old British Gas (Drayton) programmer - it tells the boiler when to switch on and off.
The red component with the black back that shows numbers (usually green) when it's turned on is the pump (circulator), that runs when there is a call for heat from the programmer, either to the Central Heating or the HW cylinder. The box at the bottom looks like a wireless receiver so there may have been a wireless remote stat/programmer at some point.

There are other components that control whether things run and where the HW from the boiler goes but that's not important. You shouldn't really turn any of that off and just control the boiler by putting the programmer into manual mode and turning the HW on and off when needed. It's important that the pump has power and can spin itself over now and again to stop it from seizing, amongst other reasons.
 
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Thanks man for the explanation! I usually turn the boiler to the right (I) before I switch the console to always on for either the heat or hot water when needed, its just easier and I figured I saved money. I however turned the boiler on AFTER editing the console. Could that break the boiler??
Regardless boiler wont light up now nor will the pumps indicator.

Other than checking the fuses, dont think theres anything else I can do but call an engineer doh!
 
Sounds like the fuse in the FCU might have popped, try a new 3A fuse. Typically electrical/electronic systems go when they are switched on, it's the power spike that's created when the switch is thrown. Best to leave things switched on and just use the controller as the on and off. As long as the boiler isn't firing then it will use little energy in stand by.
 
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Was about to turn the mains electric off, but wait the fcu means its a fuse within the boiler thats blown? Shiet how do I even find where it is to replace it? Thanks.
 
Was about to turn the mains electric off, but wait the fcu means its a fuse within the boiler thats blown? Shiet how do I even find where it is to replace it? Thanks.
Your controller look like a wired version of my wireless hive thermostat. You can set the hot water timing on it but if it’s off, it looks like you can press a boost button on top where it says 'HW' until you get the amount of timed boost you need and then press the button that will show a green tick on the bottom right. I leave my hot water on 24/7 - it really doesn’t make much difference if the cylinder is well insulated.

If your system is the same as mine, the 3a fuse for the heating should be here:
(Although I can see a light on so it must have power going to it)
Have you accidentally turned it permanently off at the controller? Try the HW boost button.




B00C26B8-86DA-45F4-9601-CE7A2B9FCBF1.jpeg
 
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Your controller look like a wired version of my wireless hive thermostat. You can set the hot water timing on it but if it’s off, it looks like you can press a boost button on top where it says 'HW' until you get the amount of timed boost you need and then press the button that will show a green tick on the bottom right. I leave my hot water on 24/7 - it really doesn’t make much difference if the cylinder is well insulated.

If your system is the same as mine, the 3a fuse for the heating should be here:
(Although I can see a light on so it must have power going to it)
Have you accidentally turned it permanently off at the controller? Try the HW boost button.




View attachment 276131
I can use the controller fine, its the boiler itself , the main control on the unit itself that is unresponsive, cant even see the blue light when turned on.
 
I can use the controller fine, its the boiler itself , the main control on the unit itself that is unresponsive, cant even see the blue light when turned on.

I suspect that you need to find the fused switch for the boiler and check the fuse.

In image number 3, it looks like you have an RCD to the left of the immersion heater. Is that related to the boiler?
 
I suspect that you need to find the fused switch for the boiler and check the fuse.

In image number 3, it looks like you have an RCD to the left of the immersion heater. Is that related to the boiler?
I have no idea, I think I will just have to call an electrician now :(
 
well i finally used my brain and traced the electrics back to the bototm right thing on the first picture, ill unscrew it and change the fuse if after long pressing the buttons on the thing that looks like the rcd doesnt reset it. cheers!
 
actually the controls go into that same box.. and theyre still working.. ****.
 
I don't think that anyone has found out what the item at the bottom left of the cylinder is for.

It looks like a small RCD and may need one of the two buttons pushed in to reset it.

Strange place for it to be mounted though, if it is. Could the OP provide a better, close up, photo of that item, left of the cylinder close to the floor?
 
I don't think that anyone has found out what the item at the bottom left of the cylinder is for.

It looks like a small RCD and may need one of the two buttons pushed in to reset it.

it looks like an rcd fcu, but I can't see any cables going in/out

looks old and dirty, may now be disused

could possibly have been for something in the bathroom, like a heater or a shower pump.

an old one of these

1659895374363.png


I think the brand name was powerbreaker. they used to do cheap RCD sockets as well.
 
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