I want a PIR floodlight with a switched override (L1 terminal)

[Jimbo]

So back in the good old days, you could buy PIRs with an L1 terminal which you could connect to a switch for an override.

Nowadays they all come with the "feature" that you have to switch power to the light off and on three times to have it come on permanently, then switch it off and leave it for 30 seconds before switching it on again to resume PIR mode.

This, I respectfully submit, is a f**king awful system.

My old-style 500W halogen PIR floodlight, with switched manual override, finally gave up the ghost, so I need a replacement. I'm fine with the new style LED lights, as long as they're bright I really don't care what tech they use. However, I want to retain my existing wiring and switching setup with the replacement. That is - power is permanently supplied to the unit, the light comes on when the PIR is triggered. When I want it on permanently for a time, I turn the switch on. Just like, erm, a light switch. When I'm finished, I turn it off. Just like, erm, a light switch.

Can anybody advise on where I can get a decent PIR floodlight (500W equivalent) with an L1 terminal so I can physically switch the override without having to faff about toggling the switch three times?

Cheers

 

[flameport]

A separate PIR sensor and light - which also means both can be positioned properly.

 

[Sureitsoff?]

connect your switched live(override feed )in parrallel to the switched output of the pir leading to the light itself (tis what I did)

 

[bernardgreen]

As mentioned use separate lamp and PIR. A two gang switch provides the necesary control.

Stienel PIRs are very reliable and well built. LINK They are expensive but they out-last and out-perform cheaper PIRs

 

[Stay Frosty]

You can still get LED floodlights that have that additional conductor required but having tried to do this the other week it came down to looking in the new floodlight box to see if the fitting had a 3 or 4 core flex, 4 core flex and you're away.

As for a 500 watt tungsten halogen equivalent that's going to be at least a 50 watt LED and more realistically a 100 watt one, you'll probably struggle to get a colour less than 6000 Kelvin but a 4000K fitting if you could get it would appear brighter than the tungsten without being as harsh as the eye bleeding 6000K cold white colour temperature.

 

[John D v2.0]

In terms of decent lights, osram do their LEDvance floodlights in 4000k and 3000k and the all have efficiencies >105lm/w. plus a reasonable flicker and CRI. They are hardly more expensive than the cheap ones from b&q etc.
If you can use two 50W it would be better than one 100W.
However, their PIR ones are just PIR or off, so woud have to be used in conjunction with a separate PIR as mentioned above.

 

[Jimbo]

Thanks all for replies. I did find an old PIR light which didn't advertise manual override, but did indeed have an L1 terminal. I connected it up and it worked, but the PIR triggers every few minutes (and the light is just outside my bedroom, if you're wondering why I'm posting this early in the day )

I did consider a separate PIR and light, but as I said in OP, I wanted to avoid changing my wiring - I have four-core exiting the garage wall in just the right place. But as the replacement light spends as much time on as off, it looks like I'll have to go this route.

Cheers
J

 

[John D v2.0]

I did consider a separate PIR and light, but as I said in OP, I wanted to avoid changing my wiring - I have four-core exiting the garage wall in just the right place

Four core is all you'd need. switched live, PIR live, neutral and earth. Then mount the PIR and light together with some suitable flex or conduit connecting them.

 

[EddieM]

Make sure the PIR output is 230v though.

 

[Stay Frosty]

Normally you get at least two small twiddly knobs somewhere on the floodlight to set light on duration and the light level at which the PIR will start to work its magic, often a third twiddler too for the PIR range sensitivity, if as it sounds you haven't got these to fiddle with you could try some black insulating tape over the PIR window much like on car headlights when driving abroad to alter, in this case, what the PIR can actually see to reduce the nuisance tripping of shrubs, trees etc. waving about close by in the detection area.

Failing that lean out of your adjacent bedroom window and realign the fitting with a broom, gently at first and then violently as the mood takes you, Victor Meldrew style.