A colleague at work has just bought his first property - a late 80's/early 90's 2-bed bungalow. He's busy doing stuff like getting rid of all the wallpaper (he doesn't like the "old people's" patterns), new windows, bathroom, kitchen - and most importantly the wiring for the TV etc (it's going to be a right bachelor pad ).
Anyway, it's had a new boiler done by BG not too long ago, and while it may shock some of you to hear me say it, it's quite a tidy job. It looks like a W or Y plan setup, using the original DHW cylinder and radiators - but dispensing with the F&E tank and going unvented. I haven't been able to look too closely at either the valve or the wiring yet. I do have a couple of queries about it.
Firstly, what is this device in the condensate drain ?
Is it a syphon, or something else ?
When he has the kitchen in bits, I'm suggesting he relocates the drain from here :
so it goes down the main drain in the kitchen. Although it's sheltered and quite short, the insulation was never fixed and is already deteriorating. Also, I'd have though it wasn't good practice to put acidic condensate into the ground so close to the building.
Then I'd propose to move the safety valve outlet lower down (use the hole made for the drain) instead of where it is now :
It doesn't show up in the photo, but the last bit of pipe slopes up enough that I reckon it would hold enough water to freeze solid in winter.
Does that sound reasonable ?
As an aside, he asked me if I could get that safe off the wall - and no, neither of us can figure out what it might have been for ! I went prepared with angle grinder assuming it might be well fixed from the inside. First thing I tried was a pry bar and it fell of with very little persuasion - as you can see, it wasn't exactly well fixed
Now, the main query on the heating.
All rads have TRVs, and there is a small manual bypass on the system, the pump is a standard Grunfos unit, and there is a pipe stat on one of the main boiler pipes. As I say, I've not had chance to study the wiring yet, but I'm assuming the idea is that when the TRVs close down, the bypass will result in the return temp rising and the pipe stat will shut down the system for a while. Would an automatic bypass be better for this - otherwise when the there is heating demand there is still going to be flow through the manual bypass ?
Any other suggestions ? I'm assuming the boiler wouldn't take kindly to a modulating pump.
There is still a thermostat on the wall, but I don't know if it's still connected - if it is, then I'm inclined to get rid of it since it's where it cannot possibly do any good since it's in the unheated (small) entrance hall.
Anyway, it's had a new boiler done by BG not too long ago, and while it may shock some of you to hear me say it, it's quite a tidy job. It looks like a W or Y plan setup, using the original DHW cylinder and radiators - but dispensing with the F&E tank and going unvented. I haven't been able to look too closely at either the valve or the wiring yet. I do have a couple of queries about it.
Firstly, what is this device in the condensate drain ?
Is it a syphon, or something else ?
When he has the kitchen in bits, I'm suggesting he relocates the drain from here :
so it goes down the main drain in the kitchen. Although it's sheltered and quite short, the insulation was never fixed and is already deteriorating. Also, I'd have though it wasn't good practice to put acidic condensate into the ground so close to the building.
Then I'd propose to move the safety valve outlet lower down (use the hole made for the drain) instead of where it is now :
It doesn't show up in the photo, but the last bit of pipe slopes up enough that I reckon it would hold enough water to freeze solid in winter.
Does that sound reasonable ?
As an aside, he asked me if I could get that safe off the wall - and no, neither of us can figure out what it might have been for ! I went prepared with angle grinder assuming it might be well fixed from the inside. First thing I tried was a pry bar and it fell of with very little persuasion - as you can see, it wasn't exactly well fixed
Now, the main query on the heating.
All rads have TRVs, and there is a small manual bypass on the system, the pump is a standard Grunfos unit, and there is a pipe stat on one of the main boiler pipes. As I say, I've not had chance to study the wiring yet, but I'm assuming the idea is that when the TRVs close down, the bypass will result in the return temp rising and the pipe stat will shut down the system for a while. Would an automatic bypass be better for this - otherwise when the there is heating demand there is still going to be flow through the manual bypass ?
Any other suggestions ? I'm assuming the boiler wouldn't take kindly to a modulating pump.
There is still a thermostat on the wall, but I don't know if it's still connected - if it is, then I'm inclined to get rid of it since it's where it cannot possibly do any good since it's in the unheated (small) entrance hall.