Immersion heater wiring

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Warwickshire
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United Kingdom
My existing immersion heater circuit has two 20A DP switchs, one in the kitchen and another upstairs next to the cylinder. The switch by the cylinder then feeds a mechanical timer with a built in on/off/timer switch.

As the switch in the kitchen serves no real purpose will I be able to get it completely removed?

I've checked the cabling and it looks like it would be a fairly simple job to pull the cables up out of the kitchen wall from above and then reroute them to where they need to go.

Also, should the heating element be connected via a switched FCU rather than a DP switch? The circuit is wired in 2.5mm T&E off a dedicated 15A breaker in the CU.

Thanks.
 
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It is correct to have a dedicated circuit for immersion, unsure why you have 2 isolating points though. Generally it will go direct to a switched fused outlet (spur) that will contain 20amp Dpole switch. My guess is that the spur isnt switched ?
 
Having two switches is a throw back to the good old days.

It is so you could pop t'mersion heater on in the kitchen without the need to go upstairs. These days on modern heating installations, if an immersion is installed at all (many houses do not have them), there will just be an isolator near the heater as it will only be used as a backup if the central heating fails.

You have a timer, so this is not needed.

You are still required to have a local isolator next to the heater. (hence TWO switches)

20A DP switch is fine aslong as the heater is fed from a dedicated 15A / 16A radial circuit
 
Thanks for the info.

The immersion is on a dedicated 15A radial.

The cylinder cupboard opens onto the landing. Due to the amount of pipe work in the cylinder cupboard the existing isolator and mechanical timer are fitted in awkward positions making the timer difficult to operate.

I’d like to replace both of these with one of those combined switched FCU and timer units that TLC sell and have it mounted inside one of the bedrooms on the part of the wall shared with the cylinder cupboard. I seem to remember that the method of isolation needs to be within 2m of what it’s isolating, but does it also need to be in a direct line of sight?
 
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Why not put the Immersion heater Controller on the wall Outside the airing cupboard? - it's the easiest method to use perhaps.
 
I would do but the layout of the bedroom and cylinder cupboard doors means that there isn't a suitable bit of wall going spare.
 
My switch os on the inside of the Airing cupboard.... always has been.... so should be ok.... Its prob not exactly to todays regs but it was done a while ago....
 

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