Immersion Heater
- Thread starter Southdene
- Start date
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well I looked at it, it seems to have leaked a little at some time.
suggestion, would be to fit an insulating jacket.
suggestion, would be to fit an insulating jacket.
I am just a householder, but I had something similar to
on my old cylinder
Where the coil comes out of the cylinder, it should be brazed on, the cylinder is paper thin and will have been eroded or corroded where it is green. Yours has been leaking, possibly it was damaged by clumsy tightening up at original installation or it may have been weak since manufacture.
the trouble is, if you try to clean it off, and. say, put LSX on it, it will quite likely open up into a worse leak. the leak will be partly clogged by limescale and green corrosion.
I had a new one fitted when I discovered my leak.
It will probably leak under the jacket where you can't see it and drip onto the floor. When the cylinder is hot the water will evaporate quite fast and you may not notice it
In your position, I would start saving up for a new cylinder, and buy a tube of Fernox LSX in case you need to make emergency repairs (if you do, you really ought to drain the cylinder to remove internal water pressure to give the stuff a chance to adhere and set.) as it may start leaking worse if you touch it, or if the wind changes, or if there is a "Y" in the day.
LSX is a sort of rubbery stuff in a tube that sticks and sets quickly.
When it happened to me, I took the opportunity to get the biggest cylinder I could, and insulate well. You will be having a new immersion heater as well. It seems to me that modern PTFE tape will give a better joint on the threaded connections than the old jointing paste, but I expect opinions differ. The person who fitted mine used LSX as a jointing compound.
Where the coil comes out of the cylinder, it should be brazed on, the cylinder is paper thin and will have been eroded or corroded where it is green. Yours has been leaking, possibly it was damaged by clumsy tightening up at original installation or it may have been weak since manufacture.
the trouble is, if you try to clean it off, and. say, put LSX on it, it will quite likely open up into a worse leak. the leak will be partly clogged by limescale and green corrosion.
I had a new one fitted when I discovered my leak.
It will probably leak under the jacket where you can't see it and drip onto the floor. When the cylinder is hot the water will evaporate quite fast and you may not notice it
In your position, I would start saving up for a new cylinder, and buy a tube of Fernox LSX in case you need to make emergency repairs (if you do, you really ought to drain the cylinder to remove internal water pressure to give the stuff a chance to adhere and set.) as it may start leaking worse if you touch it, or if the wind changes, or if there is a "Y" in the day.
LSX is a sort of rubbery stuff in a tube that sticks and sets quickly.
When it happened to me, I took the opportunity to get the biggest cylinder I could, and insulate well. You will be having a new immersion heater as well. It seems to me that modern PTFE tape will give a better joint on the threaded connections than the old jointing paste, but I expect opinions differ. The person who fitted mine used LSX as a jointing compound.
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good advice John.
frankly 2 options if it aint leaking then dont worry about it.
the scale will have sealed it usually, I doubt looking at that, that you will get the element out without ripping the cylinder.
A new cylinder will have high efficiency dense foam insulation.
your choice really
frankly 2 options if it aint leaking then dont worry about it.
the scale will have sealed it usually, I doubt looking at that, that you will get the element out without ripping the cylinder.
A new cylinder will have high efficiency dense foam insulation.
your choice really
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