Immersion WIRING help please. >>>UK

[MrGadget]

Hi, I just got a 7 day timer for our immersion.

I'm a tad confuddled as to the back of the new timer! lol so hope someone can help with what goes where in the new unit.

Many thanks in advance. I'm pretty handy on DIY but have never had to sort an immersion before! So please excuse my stupidity lol.

Back of new timer

• MrGadget
• 10 Oct 2010
• 1

is the new timer back

Old timer switch

• MrGadget
• 10 Oct 2010
• 1

Mains in on left... immersion lead bottom right.

The old timer switch

 

[Chri5]

The red and black cables are the main feed.

Connect red to main live and black to neutral. The other cable needs the blue to go with the neutral black cable and the brown goes to the switched live side of the program unit.

The idea being that the program setting then switche the mains live red over to the brown live feed to the immersion.

The yellow / greens are earth and should put together on a terminal strip- if the back box has a earth point use that.

 

[TicklyT]

Both Neutral wires together in the Neutral terminal.
Live from L1 to live in.
Live from L2 to Live out.
The timer is marked as double insulated (a square within a square) so it doesn't require an earth connection, so connect both Earth wires together in the earth terminal in the back of the back box. If it's a metal back box there should be an earth terminal at the back in one of the corners. If it's a plastic backbox without an earth terminal, use a piece of choc bloc connector.

 

[MrGadget]

Brillian many thanks guys!

Just wanted to be certain.

There's no metal in the back plate, so will chocbloc the two earths.

Cheers!

 

[RF Lighting]

Does this new timer incorporate a DP isolator switch ?

 

[MrGadget]

Untitled

• MrGadget
• 10 Oct 2010
• 1

Many many thanks job done!

 

[MrGadget]

@ RF .. The isolator for just the immersion is at the consumer unit thanks.

 

[RF Lighting]

It sadly doesn't comply with the wiring regulations any more though.

You need to re fit your 20A DP isolaton switch onto the supply cable.

Use that switch to supply your time switch, and then your time switch to supply your immersion heater.

 

[MrGadget]

?? doesn't it? sheesh!!

That sounds a big job to me, will get a local sparky in to check then.
Many thanks.
The consumer units round the corner on a facing wall.

 

[Steve]

The only DP switch in the CU will knock off several other circuits, or the whole house.

The immersion MCB is only a SP switch.

 

[sparkydude]

The job is not complicated mate, all you need to do is to reverse what you have done so far and then simply mount a single surface box on which to mount your timeswitch then take the flex to the immersion element in and out of the box and conect as you have been told . If you have any doubts feel free to come back for more advice, but if you want to pay a local sparky to do it then it will cost you a lot more than your time and asking a few questions on here would cost.

Nick

 

[MrGadget]

all this dp cu mcb obe vip lol ... is confusing to a noob.

I now finally get it thanks guys lol! the 20a dp i took off just needs to go back on and chuck the timer between it and the immersion on the wall on a single box. Soz, all this cu mcb stuff made me think i needed the kinda switch on the consumer unit ffs lol.

Will sort tomoz now.. Homebase is near, will try there.

Just a point, the lead from the 20a dp switch to the immersion at the moment is too short really, literally at 45 degrees up to the wall, done by whoever installed it b4.

If i take this off and get a longer piece, what exactly am I looking for mains wire wise with regs/power load etc in this case?

Many thanks Sparky, you're right and thanks for the offer of help

Thanks all! more pants photo's to come lol. Sheesh.. A switch lol.

 

[1john]

You need 2.5mm three core heat resistant flex.

 

[MrGadget]

Thanks!