Hello, this is my first posting here though I've been browsing for a while. At my mum's house there's an overhead supply to a detached garage. The cable is deteriorating and I'm looking to replace it and improve the installation. I have read numerous posts about garage/shed installations and these have answered most of my questions but I'd appreciate advice on a few points.
Existing Installation
2.5mm^2 T+E wired directly from socket in kitchen, through wall, up & across to garage at 2.4m height, 3.2m span on catenary wire. Enters junction box in garage, one side to two 13A sockets, other side to striplight via switch. The sockets are used for charging rechargeable tools and very occasionally for a hoover or drill. The garage has block walls and a metal up & over door. There are no metal utility pipes.
I see the following problems with the existing installation:
No isolator or RCD for overhead cable (the window cleaner clonked it with a ladder once!)
No isolator, RCD or overload protection for garage.
No overload protection for lighting circuit.
No UV protection for outside cable.
No mechanical protection for overhead cable.
Overhead cable should be 3.5m or higher.
Supply earth type
Not sure whether it's TN-C-S or TN-S - see photo:
Plan A
The first-choice solution would presumably be a new RCD-protected circuit from the house CU with underground SWA and a garage CU, but the cost and disruption would be out of proportion to the limited use that the circuit gets, she'd rather disconnect and do without.
So I'm looking for a DIY alternative that's safe, adequate, legal and won't get flagged as a problem at future house surveys. I'm thinking along the following lines:
Plan B
RCD FCU from kitchen socket.
Either Hi-Tuf overhead from FCU to garage, or 3-core SWA overhead from FCU to garage via suitable weatherproof box.
In garage, to DP switch (metalclad or via metal box if using SWA), then to sockets 1 & 2 on radial circuit with switched 5A fused spur from socket 1 for light.
Questions
(1) Does Plan B seem sensible, given that Plan A is ruled out?
(2) Would the work be notifiable? I'm hoping it's covered by 1 (a,b) (replacing equipment & damaged cable) but would the RCD FCU count as new equipment?
(3) Hi-Tuf or SWA - TLC say both have UV protection and both are suitable for overhead supply supported with catenary wire. I haven't worked with either before. I get the impression from some posts here that SWA is tricky, but if it has clear advantages then I'll learn how to use it. I found this learn-by-your-mistakes topic: Use/purpose of Gland when installing garage consumer unit.
(4) Cable CSA - the TLC calculator suggests 1.5mm^2 would suffice for up to 20A on an 8m run, and this would be a 13A spur. I thought I'd be needing 2.5mm^2.
(5) Terminating cable at house end - where the cable exits the house wall, if I use SWA I'll need a weatherproof box. Would this 20 Amp Weatherproof Junction Box be suitable?
Can I fit the box directly over the hole and run T+E through the wall into a hole in the back of the box? Or do I need to run a weatherproof cable through the wall into the box via a gland - if so, what cable & gland would be suitable?
This is where I'm thinking Hi-Tuf would make life easier, run it from the socket through the wall and up & over to the garage. The 2.5mm^2 has a minimum bend radius of 66mm though - that's an ugly loop coming out of the wall. Also not sure how to protect it from being yanked out through the wall - does that RCD FCU have a cord grip?
(6) Terminating cable at garage end - for SWA could I terminate in metalclad DP switch or should I use a separate metal adaptable box & run the cores through to the switch?
(7) SWA armour earthing - earth at one end or both? (I'd be using 3-core SWA, one core as earth). Use M4 brass bolt through banjo, box & hoop/eyelet crimp, is that right?
(8) Testing - I have a multimeter and a neon screwdriver (I know...) Is there other worthwhile affordable test equipment, e.g. a plug-in socket tester?
I'll try to work through the relevant and practicable parts of the testing section of the online Whitfield book.
What's a safe way of testing RCD protection?
Many thanks for your time and patience.
Existing Installation
2.5mm^2 T+E wired directly from socket in kitchen, through wall, up & across to garage at 2.4m height, 3.2m span on catenary wire. Enters junction box in garage, one side to two 13A sockets, other side to striplight via switch. The sockets are used for charging rechargeable tools and very occasionally for a hoover or drill. The garage has block walls and a metal up & over door. There are no metal utility pipes.
I see the following problems with the existing installation:
No isolator or RCD for overhead cable (the window cleaner clonked it with a ladder once!)
No isolator, RCD or overload protection for garage.
No overload protection for lighting circuit.
No UV protection for outside cable.
No mechanical protection for overhead cable.
Overhead cable should be 3.5m or higher.
Supply earth type
Not sure whether it's TN-C-S or TN-S - see photo:
Plan A
The first-choice solution would presumably be a new RCD-protected circuit from the house CU with underground SWA and a garage CU, but the cost and disruption would be out of proportion to the limited use that the circuit gets, she'd rather disconnect and do without.
So I'm looking for a DIY alternative that's safe, adequate, legal and won't get flagged as a problem at future house surveys. I'm thinking along the following lines:
Plan B
RCD FCU from kitchen socket.
Either Hi-Tuf overhead from FCU to garage, or 3-core SWA overhead from FCU to garage via suitable weatherproof box.
In garage, to DP switch (metalclad or via metal box if using SWA), then to sockets 1 & 2 on radial circuit with switched 5A fused spur from socket 1 for light.
Questions
(1) Does Plan B seem sensible, given that Plan A is ruled out?
(2) Would the work be notifiable? I'm hoping it's covered by 1 (a,b) (replacing equipment & damaged cable) but would the RCD FCU count as new equipment?
(3) Hi-Tuf or SWA - TLC say both have UV protection and both are suitable for overhead supply supported with catenary wire. I haven't worked with either before. I get the impression from some posts here that SWA is tricky, but if it has clear advantages then I'll learn how to use it. I found this learn-by-your-mistakes topic: Use/purpose of Gland when installing garage consumer unit.
(4) Cable CSA - the TLC calculator suggests 1.5mm^2 would suffice for up to 20A on an 8m run, and this would be a 13A spur. I thought I'd be needing 2.5mm^2.
(5) Terminating cable at house end - where the cable exits the house wall, if I use SWA I'll need a weatherproof box. Would this 20 Amp Weatherproof Junction Box be suitable?
Can I fit the box directly over the hole and run T+E through the wall into a hole in the back of the box? Or do I need to run a weatherproof cable through the wall into the box via a gland - if so, what cable & gland would be suitable?
This is where I'm thinking Hi-Tuf would make life easier, run it from the socket through the wall and up & over to the garage. The 2.5mm^2 has a minimum bend radius of 66mm though - that's an ugly loop coming out of the wall. Also not sure how to protect it from being yanked out through the wall - does that RCD FCU have a cord grip?
(6) Terminating cable at garage end - for SWA could I terminate in metalclad DP switch or should I use a separate metal adaptable box & run the cores through to the switch?
(7) SWA armour earthing - earth at one end or both? (I'd be using 3-core SWA, one core as earth). Use M4 brass bolt through banjo, box & hoop/eyelet crimp, is that right?
(8) Testing - I have a multimeter and a neon screwdriver (I know...) Is there other worthwhile affordable test equipment, e.g. a plug-in socket tester?
I'll try to work through the relevant and practicable parts of the testing section of the online Whitfield book.
What's a safe way of testing RCD protection?
Many thanks for your time and patience.