inbuilt electric oven and hob replacment to freestanding

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Hi im new here and im sorry if this as been asked before but I need a bit of help with this diy project im wanting to know if I will just be able to connect the freestanding one srraight in place of the inbuilt one the replacement says on the back panel I need to conect it too a 42amp socket the inbuilt one is connected to a cooker switch which is on the wall in the kitchen which as a plug socket which we have our kettle pluged into behind the cabinet where the oven and hob is there is round connector thats got two cables coming out one to the oven one to the hob will the switched socket be good enough for the new freestanding unit if you need any pics let me know
Thanks for any help
Steve
 
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What model is the new one? What do the instructions say?

42A is an odd figure.
 
By sounds of it you have both hob and oven connected via a junction box, is the hob also electrical if so do you know the output of that?
Also what cable size do you in place at the moment?
 
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There is a 10mm cable coming from the ccu then theres a round connector block with a 6mm wire going to the electric hob and a black flex going to the oven I couldnt tell you what the wattage/ampage are tho
 
Do you know the make and model, serial number of the hob. I assume it is electric not gas?
As a lot of electric hobs will require a 32A fuse!
 
So 32A B type MCB required at CU, you have 10mm cable to junction box (which should be easily accessible for inspection and testing and maintenance purposes)
The two 6mm cables from junction box, only one cable will be required to hardwire the appliance and 6mm cable can carry 47A maximum, so 32A no problem.
So everything seems fine, just a matter of removing one the 6.00mm cables that is not required.

Calculating diversity for 7kW @ 230V, will also allow for the socket on cooker control unit to stay in place.
 
So 32A B type MCB required at CU, you have 10mm cable to junction box (which should be easily accessible for inspection and testing and maintenance purposes)
The two 6mm cables from junction box, only one cable will be required to hardwire the appliance and 6mm cable can carry 47A maximum, so 32A no problem.
So everything seems fine, just a matter of removing one the 6.00mm cables that is not required.

Calculating diversity for 7kW @ 230V, will also allow for the socket on cooker control unit to stay in place.

So I can just use the cable that's already there I was going to go out and buy some 10mm Red/Brown=Live Black/Blue=Neutral
Yes?
 
So I can just use the cable that's already there I was going to go out and buy some 10mm Red/Brown=Live Black/Blue=Neutral
Yes?
The existing cable you have is suitably sized for the appliance you are installing.

You could in theory connect both the 6mm cables from junction box to the new appliance.

But as posted above, the cable/cables will need to be free of damage.
 

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