Hi wondered if anyone can help can i connect a Floureon byc17.gh3 thermostat to glow worm ultracom 30cxi the old thermo was honeywell not sure what module I've added photos if that helps
Installation of a new thermostat
- Thread starter Toomey88
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Yes, but the Flowery-one stat will need a permanent 240vac supply to make it work, then you'll need to connect it's output to the boiler. This probably means you'll need extra wiring.
First of all, you don't give details of your heating system. The Floureon BYC17.GH3 is marketed as a thermostat for electric underfloor heating with a remote sensor. So its internal control circuitry may not be suitable for other types of heating. When sold by Amazon in the UK, the Amazon website specifically states that it is "Not Compatible with air conditioner, oil/gas/water heating boiler".
Having said that; its instructions do say that the thermostat is suitable for "electric heating equipment and water heating system of electric heating or actuator control" Which is a bit ambiguous, as a thermostat will always control some form of electric actuator even when used with "oil/gas/water heating boiler"
So, if the Floureon is suitable, (and I recommend that you check this first with the manufacturer / supplier to make sure) your old thermostat looks like a Honeywell 6360 thermostat. If it is, the wiring connections are at the top of the thermostat as below:
Assuming that your existing thermostat is as above and has been correctly installed, and quite a few aren't. The neutral is sometimes missing, or the live wires can be transposed. It's not always immediately obvious as the old analogue thermostats will still work in a fashion with incorrect wiring but they will not be as accurate as they should be.
Your wiring colours may be different to the example above, because the colours used are chosen at the discretion of the original installer.
If your existing thermostat doesn't have a neutral wire in terminal 2, then as MeldrewsMate said additional wiring will be required.
If it is wired correctly, and I recommend that someone competent checks this with a multimeter first to be sure, then:
The wire in terminal 1 is the Live Supply.....corresponds with Floureon L
The wire in terminal 2 is the Neutral.....corresponds with Floureon N
The wire in terminal 3 is the Switched Live.....corresponds with Floureon L1
The existing timeswitch presently controlling the central heating. should be set to be permanently 'on' 24/7 otherwise it will interfere with the operation of the Floureon, which has both time and temperature control.
Having said that; its instructions do say that the thermostat is suitable for "electric heating equipment and water heating system of electric heating or actuator control" Which is a bit ambiguous, as a thermostat will always control some form of electric actuator even when used with "oil/gas/water heating boiler"
So, if the Floureon is suitable, (and I recommend that you check this first with the manufacturer / supplier to make sure) your old thermostat looks like a Honeywell 6360 thermostat. If it is, the wiring connections are at the top of the thermostat as below:
Assuming that your existing thermostat is as above and has been correctly installed, and quite a few aren't. The neutral is sometimes missing, or the live wires can be transposed. It's not always immediately obvious as the old analogue thermostats will still work in a fashion with incorrect wiring but they will not be as accurate as they should be.
Your wiring colours may be different to the example above, because the colours used are chosen at the discretion of the original installer.
If your existing thermostat doesn't have a neutral wire in terminal 2, then as MeldrewsMate said additional wiring will be required.
If it is wired correctly, and I recommend that someone competent checks this with a multimeter first to be sure, then:
The wire in terminal 1 is the Live Supply.....corresponds with Floureon L
The wire in terminal 2 is the Neutral.....corresponds with Floureon N
The wire in terminal 3 is the Switched Live.....corresponds with Floureon L1
The existing timeswitch presently controlling the central heating. should be set to be permanently 'on' 24/7 otherwise it will interfere with the operation of the Floureon, which has both time and temperature control.
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If I want to modify central heating then step one is find out what I already have. the instructions on page 23 seem to me to show the boiler has a "BUS" connection so I would assume any thermostat would be of a type that connects to the bus?
I am not a heating engineer, just an electrician, however I understand for wall thermostats there are two very different types, the old digital (off/on) and the new analogue (modulates the boilers output) and often boilers can use either, also with the digital you have mains versions, and volt free and it would seem if using the old type it needs to be volt free with your boiler.
As far as I am aware even with boilers that can use modulating thermostats, they can still have the old type fitted, however the job the thermostat does is not the same, analogue thermostats control boiler output so are either part of a hub or in the main room, digital thermostats stop boiler cycling during warm days as summer approaches so would be more likely placed in the hall.
I am also confused as to where and how wall thermostats work, clearly room temperature is controlled by the thermostatic radiator valve (TRV) and with electronic types these tell a hub what output is required, which in turn tells boiler what output is required. And I see there is a problem in that unless this system is used, if return water temperature is used, then as summer approaches we can have a boiler cycling (switching off/on) just to test if hot water is required, and a wall thermostat in say the hall can switch off the boiler and stop this.
However in winter I want house at between 18°C and 22°C but in summer I want to keep house cool so 16°C to 20°C in fact 20°C is likely too hot, so can't see how we can really automate the boiler switching off, however many devices I install I still turn heating up in winter and down in summer using manual controls. To be completely automatic it would need to connect to weather reports, which can be done with IFTTT, but to my mind too complex, I simply turn hall thermostat up in winter and down in summer.
The point is before adding of changing thermostat, work out what you have and what you want, since seems your boiler modulates, temperature control really needs to be also something that gradually opens and closes or turns up and down, not off/on, however switching boiler off for summer can be off/on and I still use a thermostat to switch off/on could be swapped for a simple switch, but never bothered it is just as easy to turn a dial as to flick a switch.
I thought my TRV's were at fault because rooms were not staying steady, so I bought expensive electronic heads, then I found the problem, most of the radiators have the TRV on the return not feed, and although valve works either way being bidirectional it means radiator heats up well before the TRV gets warm, so it produced a hysteresis, simply turning down the lock shield valves which means radiator heats up slower so there was enough time for TRV to close before radiator stinking hot, and all now works as it should.
I am not a heating engineer, just an electrician, however I understand for wall thermostats there are two very different types, the old digital (off/on) and the new analogue (modulates the boilers output) and often boilers can use either, also with the digital you have mains versions, and volt free and it would seem if using the old type it needs to be volt free with your boiler.
As far as I am aware even with boilers that can use modulating thermostats, they can still have the old type fitted, however the job the thermostat does is not the same, analogue thermostats control boiler output so are either part of a hub or in the main room, digital thermostats stop boiler cycling during warm days as summer approaches so would be more likely placed in the hall.
I am also confused as to where and how wall thermostats work, clearly room temperature is controlled by the thermostatic radiator valve (TRV) and with electronic types these tell a hub what output is required, which in turn tells boiler what output is required. And I see there is a problem in that unless this system is used, if return water temperature is used, then as summer approaches we can have a boiler cycling (switching off/on) just to test if hot water is required, and a wall thermostat in say the hall can switch off the boiler and stop this.
However in winter I want house at between 18°C and 22°C but in summer I want to keep house cool so 16°C to 20°C in fact 20°C is likely too hot, so can't see how we can really automate the boiler switching off, however many devices I install I still turn heating up in winter and down in summer using manual controls. To be completely automatic it would need to connect to weather reports, which can be done with IFTTT, but to my mind too complex, I simply turn hall thermostat up in winter and down in summer.
The point is before adding of changing thermostat, work out what you have and what you want, since seems your boiler modulates, temperature control really needs to be also something that gradually opens and closes or turns up and down, not off/on, however switching boiler off for summer can be off/on and I still use a thermostat to switch off/on could be swapped for a simple switch, but never bothered it is just as easy to turn a dial as to flick a switch.
I thought my TRV's were at fault because rooms were not staying steady, so I bought expensive electronic heads, then I found the problem, most of the radiators have the TRV on the return not feed, and although valve works either way being bidirectional it means radiator heats up well before the TRV gets warm, so it produced a hysteresis, simply turning down the lock shield valves which means radiator heats up slower so there was enough time for TRV to close before radiator stinking hot, and all now works as it should.
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Impossible, as the existing thermostat would not work.
More likely it's live, switched live and earth.
In any case, that wiring is not suitable for the new device, so additional wiring will be required.
Floureon do a thermostat for gas boiler
Are you saying one of the wires is an earth, because you have electrically tested it and found that it is actually connected to earth, or are you assuming that it's an earth wire because it has green/yellow insulation?
If it's the second, then it's not unusual to find that someone has used a wire with green/yellow insulation for purposes other than an earth. It is what it is connected to that determines the function of a wire, not the colour of its insulation.
I've tested each wire and the only one come out as live is the live wire I've tested the netual and earth and both comeing up as nothing but I think the problem I have is the old one is volt free but the new one need a separate power supply to it
If you don't have a wire connected to terminal 2 of the Honeywell (Neutral) then it's possible it has been incorrectly installed, and used as a voltage free switch, which it's not designed to be.
To work properly, the Honeywell has an accelerator heater to improve its accuracy and this requires 230V to operate.
To work properly, the Honeywell has an accelerator heater to improve its accuracy and this requires 230V to operate.
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