Installing decorative pvc cladding, ceiling issue

[kilo_4que]

Hi guys im wanting fit some decorative pvc cladding to my toilet room at my work premises but after removing the previous very tatty suspended ceiling, Ive realised there isnt any real ceiling work above. It is just the underside of the roof i.e. insulation. So basically the room was as such where once you walk in, there is approx 2.7 meter distance from floor to the suspended ceiling.

Now however on one side it is approx 2.9 meters and around 3.6 meters on the other as of cours the roof slope is exposed. The room itself is made up using timbers studs and the frame is higher than the previous suspension.

Likewise my question was, what on earth would I need to do to fix the panels approx 2.7 off the ground. The only solution i personally can think of is get some battens and fix them across the timber studs and make my frame but was wonder whether it would be a little flimsy in the centre considering the toilet toom is 3.5 x 1 meter. Also what size battens would I need if I was to do this and also whether any recommendations as to how far apart i need to set these batten. The panels btw are the standard 3 foot or so panels

thanks

 

[big-all]

my thoughts

insulation and fire regs!!!!!

i would use 2x2" timber at right angles to the joists and assuming they are at 16 centres i would support from every 2nd one with a bit off 2x2"

i would space then approximatly 24" appart

 

[kilo_4que]

big all this is the thing, there are no joists across the ceiling to attach the batons to.

Here is are two illustrations givin you an idea of what we have.

This is a side view, the red lines i.e. the suspended ceiling has been removed hence there is no horizontal ceiling frame so was wondering whether 2x2 batons all the way across at regular intervals would be strong enough, i.e. not stomach downwards

This is just a birds eye view. Yes i know it doesnt look right with the lengths given but the measurements are correct. The right hand wall where it says 3 meters is for the whole side i.e. including the bend.

This is the only side which is brick work, the other three walls are stud walls. The 2.5 meter length is up to the door.

I hope this makes sense

 

[big-all]

the support required fully depends on the span and the weight of the cladding!!!

what is the length of the span[across between the longest walls]!!

and how heavy is the cladding!!!


if its 1.5m and the cladding is light then you should be ok with 2x2 every 24" or if your worried 3x1 or 4x1" if anything is likly to be affixed like heavy lighting or cubical s

 

[kilo_4que]

Big, the cladding is light, the longest distance as can be seen in the rubbish illustration of mine is approx 3 meters

 

[big-all]

ok 2x2" along the long walls 3.5" up from the finnised ceiling level[ 3" wood + cladding thickness]

2x2" along the short walls 13mm up from the finnished line

3x2" every 600mm along the wall or whatever spacing suits the cladding

you could actualy use somthing like 1.5 x2.5" cls[38mx63mm]timber as its more stable

just make shure you measure your timber and cladding to give you your refference lines

 

[kilo_4que]

Aah so what your saying in essence is that I make a sort of perimeter using the 2x2 fixing the 2x2 lenths to the walls and fixing the 3x2 underneath i.e. to the underside of the 2x2 at the relevant intervals?

If this is correct, i jsut dont undertand why the short walls would have the 2x2 only 13mm from the finished line

 

[big-all]

Aah so what your saying in essence is that I make a sort of perimeter using the 2x2 fixing the 2x2 lenths to the walls and fixing the 3x2 underneath i.e. to the underside of the 2x2 at the relevant intervals?

If this is correct, i jsut dont undertand why the short walls would have the 2x2 only 13mm from the finished line

yes you fix the 3x2 undeneath which finnishes at 13mm from your finnish line

you can also start and finnish with a 3x2 batton but because affixng to the end wall is stronger than an unsupported span you may as well use 2x2 at the ends but lowered to match the bottom face of the joists
clear as mudd ehhh

 

[kilo_4que]

Just wanted to come back to this thread which Big Al kindly helped me with.

I have my timber frame in place, seems accurate enough however I now have two other questions which i have been trying to find answers to via search but no look. Ive found threads but no one has replied to the posters.

Likewise I was going to ask when i put a panel up should i staple gun in one side? i.e. staple gun in the left side of the panel, slot the next panel in and staple the back of that in also etc etc. The reason i say one side is because im sure there is only one side of the panel which has a lip sticking out to staple gun or screw in

Furthermore, would you recommend screwing in or staple in?

And finally would some form of grab adhesive work also or is it not worth putting on the ceiling frame?

Furthermore, a question which ive been seeking an answer to is, what would i use on my walls to stick the panels on.

Basically I have 1 wall which is old uneven plaster but is solid in most parts. The other three walls are bare plasterboard. Would some form of grab adhesive do the job here and if so what product would you recommend as there are sooooo many adhesives. Would i need to do both adhesive and screws or what.

Thanks in advance, hope to see some answers

 

[kilo_4que]

bttt