insulating bedroom walls

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Hi,

We live in an old detached victorian house - which has solid walls (no cavity).

Currently sorting plumping out and then redecorating so I thought i'd be a good time to insulate the bedroom outside walls - something I'd been thinking about lately (especially after the last winter we just had).

Would welcome any advice or experience of someone who's done this?

At first I wanted to just dot & dab either K17 kingspan or Celorex PL4025 (25mm of insulation + 12.5mm plasterboard) onto the existing plasterwork, and then skim over (on the 2 outside walls in each bedroom).

The guy I've got in mind says that in his experience the shiny surface of the insulated boards doesn't bond/stick very well. So instead suggested to batten the wall and then cut kingspan insulation and pack inbetween the battens tight up against the wall. And then to fix regular plasterboard over and skim.

My concern is - what should be done about the vapour barrier? As the insulated board (K17/PL4025) has a vapour barried built in. But the builders approach above i'm guessing won't.

In case anyone is wondering - I don't really have much space to batten and create a cavity (as another alternative solution) as it'd mean re-doing a lot of the radiator pipework.

Many Thanks,
 
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insulated boards are what you need m8 as for getting them on then just d&d them on then just drill some fixings in place then skim
or just batton the walls then screw the insulated boards o them try to get the pasterboard with the insulation glued on the back
iv dont loads of this typ of work i the past its a nice way of work
and the thermal vallue is the best
 
or try this:
http://www.geocel.co.uk/product.aspx?id=206&pt=adhesives#

so long as the walls you're fixing to are quite flat this could be what you need, you can't level up like you can with board adhesive mind but will save your space too i think.

and if you use boards with the insulation glued to the back like troweladdict says it'll be nice and easy, just insta0stik the lot on and skim away.
 
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or try this:
http://www.geocel.co.uk/product.aspx?id=206&pt=adhesives#

so long as the walls you're fixing to are quite flat this could be what you need, you can't level up like you can with board adhesive mind but will save your space too i think.

Was curious - looked up a bit of info on the boards to see what they're like.

http://www.insulation-online.co.uk/celotex-pl4000-insulated-plasterboard-previously-pl3000.html

Was surprised to see D&D is there :eek:

Does D&D always imply drywall adhesive?
 
hmm yeah it does Newb, gonna have a look at celotex's own site i think and see what they say and see if we can't sort this once and for all.
 
We live in an old detached victorian house - which has solid walls (no cavity).

Currently sorting plumping out and then redecorating so I thought i'd be a good time to insulate the bedroom outside walls - something I'd been thinking about lately (especially after the last winter we just had).

At first I wanted to just dot & dab either K17 kingspan or Celorex PL4025 (25mm of insulation + 12.5mm plasterboard) onto the existing plasterwork, and then skim over (on the 2 outside walls in each bedroom).

So instead suggested to batten the wall and then cut kingspan insulation and pack inbetween the battens tight up against the wall. And then to fix regular plasterboard over and skim.

From looking at the datasheets on insulation properties (ignoring wall and 2mm thick skim):

Celotex PL4025 would give Rvalue 1.20m2K/W for 36.5mm thickness (+ the dabs)

Battens with celotex insulation (e.g. 25mm) with std wallboard 12.5mm is 1.10 + 0.07m2K/W

So not much in it there.

(of course the insulated p/boards e.g. gyproc thermaline basic has Rvalue 0.35m2K/W but is 22mm thick which could replace the std wallboard I guess to give 1.45)
Not sure if this is normal/sensible practice! ;)
 

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