Intergas ECO RF 24 error codes - help required

Joined
30 Mar 2008
Messages
138
Reaction score
0
Location
Harrow, London
Country
United Kingdom
The boiler is new and was installed about 3 months ago and has been working fine. However, overnight it has stopped working as it should. The main display shows an error code that is flashing. It was briefly 0.4 (i think), then 0.3 for a while and, now, 0.2. When in DHW combi mode, the boiler does seem to fire and heat the water a little, but not properly. In DHW UVC and CH modes, the boiler does not fire at all.

I have checked the manual, but see no sign of these particular error codes. Any ideas, anyone?
 
Sponsored Links
Follow procedure for pressurising the system. If it drops immediately report back.

Also hit the restart button on the display.

Edit: if pressure has dropped and you increase it back up to 1.5bar make sure you bleed air out of rads and boiler - air vent is at top of casing at the back left.
 
Thanks. So the 0.2/3/4 is not an error code, but the pressure of the system. But why would the pressure have dropped so suddenly? Only thing i have done recently is to bleed rads (as they were full of air). Would that have caused it, or could there be a leak?

I have found the section in the user manual for pressurising the system. However, it doesn't make much sense to me:
upload_2018-2-11_13-37-11.png

Firstly, where would the filling hose be? On my previous Potterton boiler, i simply turned a filling valve to pressurise the system.

Thanks again.
 
Bleeding air reduces pressure.
You need system full of water not air.
Repressurise, bleeding rads from bottom to top, as you go, until water comes out of rad air vents... get all air out and don’t forget to bleed boiler of air.

Filling loop should be a silver braided hose with black lever valve(s). They need to be inline with the pipework to be open... you’ll hear water rushing in when open... don’t overpressurise.

Look directly below boiler or under kitchen worktop if that’s where the boiler is. Your installer should have shown you where and how!

You are looking for this:
A50FE044-03AE-4E65-BA2D-0684E8101148.jpeg


If pressure drops again, you have a leak somewhere or ev is flat and causing PRV to discharge.

Keep us posted for further pressure drops.
 
Sponsored Links
Unfortunately, no sign of silver filling hose. The only silver hose is on the HW cylinder pipework. The filling hose should be on the cold-water-into-boiler pipe, right? Heres a photo of the piping layout (if it helps).
20180211_143041.png
 
Unfortunately, no sign of silver filling hose. The only silver hose is on the HW cylinder pipework. The filling hose should be on the cold-water-into-boiler pipe, right? Heres a photo of the piping layout (if it helps).
View attachment 136350

If it has 1 or 2 black plastic levers and an NRV then it’s the filling loop. Levers should be in off position - turn them on and watch the gauge on the boiler.

Edit: and yes... pic is crap!
 
Sorry guys. I deliberately reduced the resolution of the pic as the original was too large!
The silver hose was indeed the filling loop - thanks. Pressure now at 1.5 bar. Should i now bleed all the rads again? And what about UFH system - doesn't that fill with air too? Finally, how to bleed boiler?
 
If all you did was let air out of the rads there is no need to bleed system or boiler now. For future reference there is a radiator type bleed valve at the rear left of the top panel.

As said the boiler was just telling you the pressure was low it wasn't a fault and you wouldn't need to reset it once topped up (y)
 
Sorry guys. I deliberately reduced the resolution of the pic as the original was too large!
The silver hose was indeed the filling loop - thanks. Pressure now at 1.5 bar. Should i now bleed all the rads again? And what about UFH system - doesn't that fill with air too? Finally, how to bleed boiler?

Get any more air out as I said above.
It also says it in the manual instructions you posted :)
 
Incidentally if you find you're getting air on a regular basis, it could be a sign of ongoing corrosion which should be looked into as soon as possible
 
I pressurised to 1.5, rebled rads- its only the two rads on 2nd floor which seem to get air in them and pressure dropped to 1.2. Then bled boiler - hardly any air in that - and repressurised to 1.5. All is now okay. I'll monitor the situation and post back if pressure drops again.

Thanks again, everyone - your help is much appreciated!!
 
4 years later, this thread helped me get my poor old mums heating, bCk p again (16.5 degrees by the time I got to her). Thank You.

Another reason why fora should not be migrated onto FaceBook.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top