Intermittant gas boiler fault

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Devon
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Hello, I have a Vaillant Ecomax VU 186E condensing gas boiler with an intermittant mystery fault. I'm hoping that with your collective experience, the following observations will point towards a single most likely common cause.

It all started 10 days ago when the central heating was switched to holiday mode for a week away, ie. programmed to maintain the house at a lower temperature with no hot water until the day prior to our return. The boiler had clearly failed to start up again at some time and now continues to remain obstinately unresponsive even when asked (politely) for heat! All program and thermostat controls appear functional.

These are the critical observations from switching off power supply: Power on and with demand for heat on. After a few seconds, with a few clicks the pump is running, the water temperature display becomes active but the fan does not kick in and therefore the gas fails to ignite. The pump then continues to over-run and will remain in that state for ever, it seems. Pressing the reset button simply stops everything and repeats the sequence again when the system is either hot, warm or cold.

However, just once in a while it contrarily decides to burst into life as if nothing was wrong and may heat continuously for several hours only to mysteriously stop burning, even though there is still demand for heat.

The boiler temperature setting is set high for winter, pressure is fine and all radiators and water cylinders are calling for heat ( as are we!). When working, diagnostic mode shows the fan speed fairly constant at around 175 when interrogated at the D 33 setting and the same figure comes up at D 34. Fault code either F30 or F32 shows when the boiler fails to operate (indicating "lack of air flow through the appliance"). The flue is clear, the condensate discharge is unobstructed and the fan has demonstrated that it can clearly work properly.

Now for the mystery clincher - exactly the same thing happened on 03/04/2009 and was cured (until now) with just unplugging and plugging in the fan sensor connection (smaller brown three wire plug connector on fan itself next to the white two wire power plug).... not so this year!

Something mechanical is my hunch, I've replaced the whole wiring tree just in case of a failed wire or connection and I've inspected all other wire connections. A pcb fault or capacitor would just go and not suddenly come back - wouldn't it?

Any ideas, checks or further questions guys will be very much appreciated.
 
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I would suspect a faulty air pressure switch, call a registered gas installer to check if you are not competent to do so
 
Thanks spraggo. Feel competent, and have looked at simple instructions in the installation manual. The only doubt remaining is in what way I should check it - visually, mechanically or with some form of instrumentation? Or is it a matter of extraction and try refitting or then a new replacement?

It is called the air pressure sensor in my manual - is this the same as the aps?
 
i am not going to take my ACS qualies next time and tell gas safe not to worry as I feel confident

:)
 
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It is called the air pressure sensor in my manual - is this the same as the aps?


Yes, same thing usually best resolved by substitution, but I must stress that feeling competent is not good enough. You have to prove yourself competent
 
Fitted the entire system 10yrs ago - had the gas connection safety inspected and passed at the time of first commissioning - wouldn't be allowed to now so...

Competent by experience/ but not above seeking advice and confident yes - the air pressure sensor/switch now removed for inspection. It just clips on under the gas valve on this boiler - no tools needed. Any checks/ remedial possibilities I could try with this switch before a new part replacement? I take it you are all in consensus about the aps (aka fan proving switch?) being the probable cause of this malfunction?
 
Replaced the air pressure switch and same symptoms persist. The fan must clearly first have to operate at sufficient speed to create enough pressure in the gas intake to trigger the aps and start the ignition process. Am I correct in this deduction?
Got the boiler working today for about five hours continuously (thankfully, -2 deg. outside with snow!) until it crashed again without provocation - again by manipulating the fan sensor connection plug as before. Sadly this rarely works twice in a day!

Therefore I conclude that the fan and not the aps must be suspect in the cause of the boiler malfunction. The fan sometimes starts but doesn't rotate at speed - checking the sensor plug for connectivity sometimes triggers enough speed for ignition but is also very sensitive to slight movement (maybe even heat expansion) and the fan speed cuts. The fan spins very freely and can rotate at the correct speed - have replaced the cable tree, my dilema is either replace the fan or the pcb which controls it - both very expensive when only one may be faulty.

If the fan speed is varied by unplugging and replugging the sensor plug on the fan (small brown three wire plug) could this also indicate a pcb fault or is poor connectivity the reason?
 
maybe you should replace the pcb, the fan and the aps. Then once you've weighed out a few hundred pounds for spares that you didnt need you may have a re-think about this competence you think you have.
 

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