Is 2.745Kw of domestic lighting over the top?

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Most of the lights in my house are normal incandescent bulbs and thus my total power of all my fixed lights is 2745 watts. I hopefully will soon change most of the bulbs to CFL's and LED's!

If we were not living in the age of LED's and CFL's, would 2.745kW be acceptable?

My lighting breakdown below:


Kitchen: 975w
Living room: 240w
Porch light: 60w
Loft light: 180w
My Bedroom 250w + ceiling fan motor
My Bedroom on-suite: 50w
Main bathroom: 200w
Downstairs hallway: 80w
Upstairs hallway: 20w
Front Bedroom: 120w
Spare bedroom: 160w
Mums bedroom: 160w
Mums on-suite: 150w
Mums dressing room: 100w

Total: 2.745Kw
 
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You'll find people on here who are quite happy living in gloomy houses, with old fashioned ideas on how you should light it. They will tell you you're wrong and keep telling you over and over again.

You lighting load is maybe a bit heavy in this day and age of expensive electricity bills, but you can solve this by installing led lamps.

As long as you're happy with how the lighting scheme lights your house, that's all that really matters.
 
If we were not living in the age of LED's and CFL's, would 2.745kW be acceptable?
As RF has said, it's really down to you to decide whether it is reasonable and/or acceptable - for you. If one goes back to the days before CFLs and LEDs had even been dreamed of, I suspect that the average house had far far less than that - probably well under 1kW. I was brought up in a house which probably had no more than 10 lights at most, each just a single 60W or 100W bulb/lamp, and many of those (like in bedrooms and bathrooms) were hardly ever on.

Whilst, at first sight, 2.745kW sounds pretty ridiculous, it's probably nothing like as bad as it sounds (other, perhaps than the kitchen!) since one imagines that many of the lights you list are rarely on for significant periods of time, if at all. Would it be possible for you to re-post your 'list' with approximate estimates of the number of hours per day that each one is on?

Kind Regards, John
 
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You'll find people on here who are quite happy living in gloomy houses, with old fashioned ideas on how you should light it. They will tell you you're wrong and keep telling you over and over again.
If people go with the idea of using lights designed to light rooms, rather than using lights deliberately designed to not light them I can assure you that even using incandescent lighting throughout it is possible to light a 4-bed house perfectly brightly without needing 2.7kW of it.


You lighting load is maybe a bit heavy in this day and age of expensive electricity bills, but you can solve this by installing led lamps.
Or people could display an IQ bigger than their shoe size and solve it by using lights which are fit for purpose, rather than being complete idiots and trying to light rooms with lights which are not fit for purpose.


As long as you're happy with how the lighting scheme lights your house, that's all that really matters.
Only if they are such idiotic, stupid, ignorant fools that they have no concept of elegance.
 
Whilst, at first sight, 2.745kW sounds pretty ridiculous, it's probably nothing like as bad as it sounds (other, perhaps than the kitchen!) since one imagines that many of the lights you list are rarely on for significant periods of time, if at all.
Wrong wrong wrong wrong wrong.

It doesn't matter how often they are on, what matters is how good they are at doing the job you are calling on them to do.
 
Most of the lights in my house are normal incandescent bulbs and thus my total power of all my fixed lights is 2745 watts. I hopefully will soon change most of the bulbs to CFL's and LED's!

If we were not living in the age of LED's and CFL's, would 2.745kW be acceptable?

My lighting breakdown below:


Kitchen: 975w
Living room: 240w
Porch light: 60w
Loft light: 180w
My Bedroom 250w + ceiling fan motor
My Bedroom on-suite: 50w
Main bathroom: 200w
Downstairs hallway: 80w
Upstairs hallway: 20w
Front Bedroom: 120w
Spare bedroom: 160w
Mums bedroom: 160w
Mums on-suite: 150w
Mums dressing room: 100w

Total: 2.745Kw

Would be a few years back

Kitchen 150w bulb or 65w fluorescent
Living room 100w bulb
Porch 15w bulb
Loft twin 5 ft fluorescent 130w.
Your bedroom 60w bulb plus 40w bedside lights
Your ensuite 60w.
Bathroom 60w bulb
Downstairs hallway 60w bulb
Upstairs hallway 40w bulb
Front bedroom 60w bulb
Spare bedroom 60w bulb
Mums bedroom 60w bulb
En suite 60w bulb
Dressing room 60w bulb.

I think that is just over 1Kw.

So yes you are way over the top especially the kitchen.
 
Would be a few years back: Kitchen 150w bulb or 65w fluorescent ... Living room 100w bulb ... Porch 15w bulb ... Loft twin 5 ft fluorescent 130w. ... Your bedroom 60w bulb plus 40w bedside lights ... Your ensuite 60w. ... Bathroom 60w bulb ... Downstairs hallway 60w bulb ... Upstairs hallway 40w bulb ... Front bedroom 60w bulb ... Spare bedroom 60w bulb ... Mums bedroom 60w bulb ... En suite 60w bulb
Dressing room 60w bulb. ... I think that is just over 1Kw.
Indeed. As I wrote:
If one goes back to the days before CFLs and LEDs had even been dreamed of, I suspect that the average house had far far less than that - probably well under 1kW. I was brought up in a house which probably had no more than 10 lights at most, each just a single 60W or 100W bulb/lamp, and many of those (like in bedrooms and bathrooms) were hardly ever on.
Kind Regards, John
 
As you say other than kitchen nothing unusual the problem is of course it requires multi MCB or fuses. Since most ceiling roses are used as junction boxes and are only rated at 6A even though you are allowed 16A for lighting in most houses there is something which limits one to 6A.

My kitchen is also then biggest lighting power user with 3 x 68W fluorescents one double and one single it is about the only room that has not been changed likely as it was the best room for lights to start with.

If a 55W fluorescent = 150 tungsten then my kitchen would require 556W of tungsten lighting and the design means every time we use the room the lights are used.

Oddly it is only the kitchen where moving to non heat producing lights makes sense in every other room we for most of the times lights are used actually use the heat they produce and moving from tungsten to LED only means the central heating has to work harder. If electric heating is used then using so called energy saving bulbs does not save energy as the radiated heat from tungsten bulbs means the room feels warmer at night so we set central heating lower in the day.

But in my kitchen I have swapped the cooker to keep the kitchen cooler. Better insulation on the oven and induction hobs mean it puts far less heat into the room. To spend £1000 on a cooker to keep the room cooler and not change the lights is clearly daft. I should do something to use less energy on lighting simply to keep the room cool.

I have been however surprised at lights
220px-Leuchtstofflampen-chtaube050409.jpg
the picture shows some fluorescent lamps the second one down I use in my office. Rated at 11W the lumen output compares with LED lighting and far cheaper.

This image
220px-Fluorescent_Lamp_Inverter.png
shows an electronic ballast rather small but it uses high frequency and most include some form of regulation so the same fitting with a HF ballast can use less power and produce more light plus the tubes last longer than with a wire wound ballast.

So when we see comparison charts LED, fluorescent, tungsten they need to state if HF or wire wound ballast is used. Also the single folded tube is far better then multi-folded or coiled tube so again it has to state type of tube. Even the coatings on the tubes vary so 100 W tungsten = 23 - 30 W fluorescent is not really valid it's more like 15 - 40 W which is rather a huge variation.

LED is no better. There are three things when using an LED. First is the output of the LED, second is how it complements other LED's in the cluster as with folded fluorescent having the light emitting parts so close can mean you don't get the full output from each LED in the cluster. And third is the method of current control used.

When we use an LED we need to control the current this can be a simple resistor or a complex switch mode power supply so a 3W LED may give out 360 lumen or 210 lumen one has to be so careful selecting.

Most LED lamps are directional in some way. The old tungsten bulb had a fitting which clearly would cast a shadow but far less than any LED bulb. As a result it does matter what the light is reflected from. My living room the lights shine mainly onto the white ceiling so with 10 bulbs there is very little shadow and a good overall light. My son has GU10 LED's 6W each in a very small kitchen 7 of them so half again the power for my living room yet I needed a touch to read the display on the boiler which is in the kitchen. Reason is simple they point at a dark floor rather than a white ceiling so no light reflected. If he had used the type which can be moved and aimed them at the wall then they would work far better.

I have 2W and 3W GU10 in bed side lamps the 2W gives even light throughout the spread the 3W give more light to the centre. So even reading the angle of spread does not always work. 2W stated 30° the old 35W tungsten was 60° one has to be so careful. As a reading lamp 30° is better but fit these in a ceiling pointing down and it would look like a planetarium.

So I think when I do my kitchen it will likely be HF 2D fittings and under counter lighting may be LED but not the ceiling lights. But by time I do it there may be another option.
 
You have an excessive amount of lighting in the kitchen. Assuming that you do not wear welders goggles or dark glasses every time you boil an egg, this suggests that it has been designed with some inefficient kind of lighting that is not much good at lighting the room. I'll guess downlights.

The bathroom also has a strangely high load. If they all need to be used at the same time, and if the bathroom is typical UK size, probably another inefficient design.

Eric speaks of using lamps as heat sources, which might make sense if you live in the Antarctic or some other place where heating is required 365 days a year, and where energy from electricity does not, as in the UK, cost three times as much as energy from gas. Personally I see no point in warming ceiling-spiders.
 
Some odd wattages in the bedrooms. 160w in a spare bedroom ?
.. and in "Mum's bedroom". I have a couple of 'spare bedrooms' lit by four wall lights (replacements for ones which pre-dated my occupancy) - I can well imagine that they were once fitted with 4 x 40W (if not 4 x 60W) incandescents.

Kind Regards, John
 
I would guess on 50mm spot lights in kitchen maybe 18 x 50W with further 75w under counter.

I have 50mm spot lights on the wall went to LED to stop burning my hands trying to adjust them and being on pods it is easy to aim at ceiling rather than bed and the difference in general light has to be seen to be believed.

A kitchen is a problem to light most the work surfaces are against a wall so ones body casts a shadow on what you want to see. Cupboards mean placing lights too close to walls also casts a shadow.

Pods from the ceiling do get around this problem light coming in at an angle from either side. But all too often fitting allowing no or very little aiming of the light are used and the light is absorbed by the floor.

Units like these
double-bar-chrome-alba2ss.jpg
can work but they are very similar to the units I have on my wall in the bed room and I found although some LED bulbs will fit others do not I have given away LED bulbs as they will not fit. Buying 1 and not fitting is one thing but buying 18 would be a very different story.

But the first thing which went through my mind is 6A = 1380W so it would need at least 3 lighting circuits. I used a B16 MCB for an outside light just happened to be free and I made the mistake of using Ikea bulbs when when it blew welded its self to the BA22d contacts meaning whole fitting had to be changed. A standard BA22d is rated at 2A but there should be built in fuses in the bulb however it seems from my experience this is not the case with imports and those are the only bulbs one can buy now.

Ceiling roses are rated at 6A and also many of the connector strips used instead of ceiling roses so only safe method is no lighting with over a 6A MCB or 5A fuse. With a MCB really needs to be a B type to trip before contacts weld.

I have seen people swap to 10 and 16 amp because the trip keeps tripping but never seen them test the earth loop impedance before swapping i.e. half a job.
 
Would be a few years back
Living room 100w bulb

Although it could also be 4 or 5 double wall brackets with 40W in each, so 400W total. Probably a similar brightness overall as 40W lamps are a lot less efficient, plus wall brackets tended to have rather obscuring fabric shades.

Back in the 1920s or 1930s a 20 watt bulb (possibly even carbon filament) would have been accepted in a 'housemaid's room' but then they were used to gas lighting.

I have 58w total CFL in my lounge spread over pendants and brackets. Table lamps to be added later.

Owain
 
But the first thing which went through my mind is 6A = 1380W so it would need at least 3 lighting circuits.
Possibly true in practice but, to be pedantic, 2,745W at 230V is 'only' 11.93A, hence theoretically just about possible with two 6A circuits!

However, in practice, I personally wouldn't be too worried about that total load on two (appropriately split) 6A circuits - since I'm sure that nowhere near 2745W's worth of lighting would ever be switched on simultaneously. Call it diversity if you like (even though the OSG guidance on diversity doesn't help all that much with lighting).

Kind Regards, John
 

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