Is it worth making or renovating an old gate or should I buy a new one?

[Gary111]

I had a look at b and q and the cheapest one that looked any good was around 80 quid.
I have an old gate where the wood looks ok, I would need to cut it down, buy some kind of stainless steel screws?
Sand and treat it.

I don't have loads of time, any ideas what's best please?

Also are tee hinges ok?

I'm thinking piece of rope looping over the top instead of a bolt or catch.

It's between 2 houses so not for security really, just to keep the neighbours out!

 

[Burnerman]

You'll probably find that bought in gates are of the most pitiful quality and tend to fall apart after a very short time being made of basically crap timber. You'll need to pay way more than this for anything worth having and that won't come from a DIY shed.
Consider renovation if the existing gate is any good - give us a pic of the joints in particular. Then we can recommend screws or dowels, maybe both.
Consider hanging them with adjustable hooks and eyes rather than Tee hinges - so much better and stronger.
Treatment really depends on what you want to see....Sadolin is a brilliant external treatment, if it's paint you want then good priming is vital.
Make sure any rain drops well clear of the ground, for splash.
Of course, ready made steel (wrought iron - ha) gates are alternatives.
John

 

[Gary111]

 

[Gary111]

 

[Gary111]

 

[Gary111]

Thanks for your help John, it's a gate that a neighbour made some time ago, has been propped against the fence for a few years.
I could do with cutting the height down to just under 4 foot, I think it's 5 now.

The main supporting wood isn't actually joined together.

If I renovate it what sort of screws are best please?

I have used stainless screws before but the heads were very soft.
Maybe deck screws?

Thanks

 

[Diver Fred]

Ledge and brace timber doesn't look too bad. the Matchboarding looks thin and poor quality. Nail or screw from the face side (through the matching). You could consider replacing the match boarding yourself.
The bolt should be on the Ledge not on the matchboarding.

 

[Gary111]

The screws he used are mostly letting go, I would screw from the plank side into the thicker supports.

 

[Gary111]

The boards are 18mm, seems quite thick to me, is that too thin?

 

[Diver Fred]

The boards are 18mm, seems quite thick to me, is that too thin?

No - clear the perspective of the 'photos's. 18mm is better than most DIY barn supplied stuff.

 

[Gary111]

Thanks mate, what sort of screws would you use?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Thanks mate, what sort of screws would you use?

Stainless, but because they can be soft, pre-drill pilot holes for them.

Either cap the top of the gate with a narrow horizontal timber, or cut the tops of the verticals at an angle - that encourages the rain to run off, rather than soaking into the end grain of the timber.

 

[Diver Fred]

I only screw the 2 edge planks to the ledges - 5 or 6mm did to be about 10mm shorter than the combined thickness of matching and ledge. All other planks are nailed using something like these.

there has been a discussion earlier this week - https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/t-g-shed-door.614673/

I can see I'm going to have type and draw out my knowledge on making up Ledge & Brace doors/gates.

 

[Burnerman]

You can use roofing bolts (6mm) with a washer under the nut if you feel they would pull things more tightly together than screws.
John

 

[Gary111]

I only screw the 2 edge planks to the ledges - 5 or 6mm did to be about 10mm shorter than the combined thickness of matching and ledge. All other planks are nailed using something like these.

there has been a discussion earlier this week - https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/t-g-shed-door.614673/

I can see I'm going to have type and draw out my knowledge on making up Ledge & Brace doors/gates.

Thanks, so reading the other thread, do these need to be clinched?