is there a trick to cutting 2-Gang Surface Pattress Box's?

[enigma27]

Hi All.

Does anyone have an tips and tricks on cutting into the side of a 2-Gang Surface Pattress Box 32mm box so I can fit a cable gland and feed cable through it?

I have tried different drill bits but they always seem to break of crack.. any tools that are good for the job?

THe hole i need to cut is 16mm.

 

[AlanE]

Use a PVC box rather than the normal moulded types.

Google 'pvc surface box' loads of suppliers.

 

[enigma27]

Perfect thanks Alan. just what i needed.

 

[JohnW2]

Indeed, that's the best solution.

I've asked more than once before, but no-one has really coming up with an answer, as to what is the material that standard moulded electrical accessories are made out of. I has to be just about the most 'unforgiving' material I have ever tried to work with! Anyone got any ideas?

One can create holes in it, but one has to be incredibly careful - very cautious 'grinding' with 'minitools' is often the safest way, and then one can create things like:

Untitled

• JohnW2
• 18 Oct 2011
• 2

Kind Regards, John

 

[enigma27]

I know what you mean John..

its almost like ceramic plastic in the way it shatters quite easily... some I have had success drilling holes using a 16mm wood bit and other just shatter..

only other items i thought of trying is a 16mm hole cutter or simply using a hacksaw if i was using square trunking / conduit by simplt marking one of the edges and cutting into it then trying to pop the middle out but again it either works or it shatters.

 

[JohnW2]

I know what you mean John.. its almost like ceramic plastic in the way it shatters quite easily... some I have had success drilling holes using a 16mm wood bit and other just shatter.. only other items i thought of trying is a 16mm hole cutter or simply using a hacksaw if i was using square trunking / conduit by simplt marking one of the edges and cutting into it then trying to pop the middle out but again it either works or it shatters.

Quite so. It behaves more like a ceramic than a plastic (in fact, I doubt that it would actually satisfy the true definition of 'plastic'!). I would say that I'm happier drilling holes into ceramic tiles, maybe even glass, than into this wretched substance we're talking about.

Sharp HSS drills at high speed seem about the safest, but the really crucial thing, whatever tool one is using, is to make sure that the 'other side'of the material is supported as well as one can possibly manage. As I mentioned before, baby grinding disks and tools, even dental burrs, in very high speed mini-tools also work quite well - but, even then, there will be some shattering disasters!

On t'other hand, PVC cuts like cheese

Kind Regards, John

 

[EFLImpudence]

PVC cuts like cheese

What are you talking about?
They're both useless for cutting.

 

[Risteard]

Is it Bakelite you're referring to?

 

[JohnW2]

PVC cuts like cheese

What are you talking about? They're both useless for cutting.

Has the weekend come already?!

Kind Regards, John

 

[JohnW2]

Is it Bakelite you're referring to?

It may well be a phenolic thermosetting plastic (it smells a bit like that when it burns!), but I'm sure that the stuff moulded electrical accessories are made out of is not actually 'Bakelite' per se.

Kind Regards,

John

 

[swampy2]

Bakelite had a strange smell when you cut it with hacksaw.

 

[JohnW2]

Bakelite had a strange smell when you cut it with hacksaw.

Yep, that is/was essentially down to it being phenolic. The stuff we're talking about produces a somewhat similar, but different, smell.

Kind Regards, John

 

[stillp]

Indeed, that's the best solution.I've asked more than once before, but no-one has really coming up with an answer, as to what is the material that standard moulded electrical accessories are made out of. I has to be just about the most 'unforgiving' material I have ever tried to work with! Anyone got any ideas?

It's urea-formaldehyde resin I believe. Try Clipsal, they use polycarbonate. Nice and shiny, and easy to cut.

 

[JohnW2]

It's urea-formaldehyde resin I believe.

Thanks. That sounds very credible. On reflection, it does have a bit of a formaldehyde smell about it when machined or burned, albeit nothing like as markedly so as with 'Paxolin' (paper impregnated with phenol-formaldehyde resin).

Kind Regards, John