Is there DAMP still here after a DAMP course??

[EFCLee1]

Can someone please cast their beadies on these pics and tell me if I need to ring up the butes who done the job and hurl abuse....

About 3 weeks ago plaster was knocked off down to brick but only half way up the wall, holes along the bottom were drilled and liquid squirted in, then they dot n dabbed these big sheets of plastic with Lego type lumps all over it, then mortared over that then skimmed over that, weeks later we now have this flaky plaster with a white fury line were the old plaster joins the new...

Any help is much appreciated...

Untitled

• EFCLee1
• 9 Oct 2014
• 1

Untitled

• EFCLee1
• 9 Oct 2014
• 1

Untitled

• EFCLee1
• 9 Oct 2014
• 1

 

[gregers]

think its the salts comming out?

 

[ree]

You have had a radical failure of whatever kind of damp proofing was attempted.

What does the horizontal black line signify?

Dot & dabbing the dimpled tanking sheets is a non starter.

Running the new remedial cover down to touch the (solid?) floor is also incorrect. Likewise, using gypsum skim instead of a remedial skim.

There are so many variables in "damp proofing" that perhaps you should go to the Building Forum and read up on similar situations - there are masses of them, and then come back with more information. eg. why not post pics of the whole wall and the exterior of the wall?

 

[EFCLee1]

You have had a radical failure of whatever kind of damp proofing was attempted.

What does the horizontal black line signify?

Dot & dabbing the dimpled tanking sheets is a non starter.

Running the new remedial cover down to touch the (solid?) floor is also incorrect. Likewise, using gypsum skim instead of a remedial skim.

There are so many variables in "damp proofing" that perhaps you should go to the Building Forum and read up on similar situations - there are masses of them, and then come back with more information. eg. why not post pics of the whole wall and the exterior of the wall?

I no very little about plastering and that is why I posted here, all I needed to know is if there is still a problem here.....i could call the guys out who done the work and they could tell me it's fine

Don't really want to learn the a to z of plastering I don't have the time, but I would appreciate any advice on here

Thanks for your help

Cheers

Lee

 

[roy c]

I think ree gave you your answer in his first sentence,,,

 

[EFCLee1]

You have had a radical failure of whatever kind of damp proofing was attempted.

What does the horizontal black line signify?

Dot & dabbing the dimpled tanking sheets is a non starter.

Running the new remedial cover down to touch the (solid?) floor is also incorrect. Likewise, using gypsum skim instead of a remedial skim.

There are so many variables in "damp proofing" that perhaps you should go to the Building Forum and read up on similar situations - there are masses of them, and then come back with more information. eg. why not post pics of the whole wall and the exterior of the wall?

What does the horizontal black line signify?

Possibly when I had electrics done in kitchen, the entire wall was just new plaster and plug sockets are on line with that black line??



Running the new remedial cover down to touch the (solid?) floor

Sorry if pics are not showing full picture, this is just above my kitchen worktop, the third pic shows my ceramic sink...


Does them answers still make this a boloxed up damp job??

Cheers for your help

 

[ree]

If the elec cable runs behind that blackline then its not only non-Regs its pretty dangerous. Elec. safe zones are Regs. and competent sparkies run cable in safe zones.

The job isn't working but the info required for us to tell you why its failed has to be supplied by you - hence my original question.

 

[EFCLee1]

If the elec cable runs behind that blackline then its not only non-Regs its pretty dangerous. Elec. safe zones are Regs. and competent sparkies run cable in safe zones.

The job isn't working but the info required for us to tell you why its failed has to be supplied by you - hence my original question.

I have a good idea were they are and its below that black line, I think the black link was for the sockets and not the cables, maybe about 6-8 inchs below that black line is the electric cable approx.

This wall is a party wall and on other side is next doors kitchen..

If there anything else you want me to tell you I will try my best,

thanks again for your advice, much appreciated

 

[ree]

Once again: you must run cable according to Regs. You know where the cables are but no one coming after you does - thats why they have Regs, so everyone is on the same sheet.

To require tanking on a party wall only is odd, plus you have obviously had soaked brickwork for such salts to appear so quickly. Presumably, the tanking stopped at work top height? Was the wall above the w/t knocked off and gypsum plastered?

You have to trace where the damp originally came from. Ask the neighbour's about the condition of their wall(s), surely their side of the wall is as degraded as your wall is? Whats the condition of the outside wall, and below the sink?

If the source of the damp can be located and stopped then you will have to re-do the whole thing back to brickwork. Its typically best to render up in sand and lime and a limelite skim.

 

[EFCLee1]

Not 100% on all safe zones, especially in a kitchen, it was my housing association who installed the kitchen so you would presume they know were cables need to go?

Tanking was put on another wall, I have a back door in my kitchen so either side of that was done too, the pics only show were I have bad plaster work all other plaster word done is OK.

Yes tanking stopped at w/t height, the plaster was not knocked off above the worktop, exactly were u see the line of salt is were the new plaster meets the old, old above new below....no idea if it was gypsum plastered work was completed while i was in work

i think the damp came from a gutter in back garden, it has since been fixed as water was running down the brickwork and possibly coming into house that way, and it has travelled a long way along the kitchen wall

If I have flaking plaster does this mean I still have damp? so Will the tanking need to come off? or just the plaster above worktop hacked off and replaced?

Just wondering if I will endure another kitchen rip out fiasco