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Spent the evening searching the forum & am pretty sure that my prob is cap. coupling, but wanted to run the details past you men of wisdom.
I'm stringing up my "lights down", radial, using T&E. Goes like this: CU--kitchen--bathrm--office--dining--. That's as far as I've got. I have rigged two-way switching in kitchen and dining.
Filament bulbs everywhere save kitch which has an old tube.
On checking the dining lumi with a fluke digital meter, I found a reliable 235V when "On" but 25V when "off" one way and 88V when switched off the other way (2-way-switched).
These odd voltages gradually (over a few secs) decayed away to <1V when I experimentally shorted blue-brown at the lumi. when I did this (stupid maybe but I have total confidence in my superfast new mcbs) there was not even the slightest spark.
I'm using 3&E for two-way switching; some of this is run inside old steel conduit but this is properly earthed.
Thing is, I dont have particularly long cableruns yet - certainly the 3&E is under 15m.
The filaments and tube are all behaving well (on is on and off is off)
I'm stringing up my "lights down", radial, using T&E. Goes like this: CU--kitchen--bathrm--office--dining--. That's as far as I've got. I have rigged two-way switching in kitchen and dining.
Filament bulbs everywhere save kitch which has an old tube.
On checking the dining lumi with a fluke digital meter, I found a reliable 235V when "On" but 25V when "off" one way and 88V when switched off the other way (2-way-switched).
These odd voltages gradually (over a few secs) decayed away to <1V when I experimentally shorted blue-brown at the lumi. when I did this (stupid maybe but I have total confidence in my superfast new mcbs) there was not even the slightest spark.
I'm using 3&E for two-way switching; some of this is run inside old steel conduit but this is properly earthed.
Thing is, I dont have particularly long cableruns yet - certainly the 3&E is under 15m.
The filaments and tube are all behaving well (on is on and off is off)