Is this ok for a twin light switch socket?

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Is there anything wrong with the following circuit?

I have a twin light switch socket: 1 switch for 2 fluorescent tubes (50W each) and the other for 4 halogen wall lights (45W each).
I've wired this circuit:
(I=input; A=halogens; B=fluorescents; T=5A connector strip; G=Back Box)

and here is it when done ...

There are a couple of other related questions:
1) Is it ok to use earth tape like that?
2) If L1 is at the top and I press the switch at the top, does that connect L1 or L2 to common (usually) ?
3) Is it ok to pin the cables like this ... ?

P.S. my first post, I've been using this site for a while now but have little to offer as advice so perhaps I can contribute a decent drawing of what to do or not to do!
 
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Is there anything wrong with the following circuit?
No.

There are a couple of other related questions:
1) Is it ok to use earth tape like that?
Not really, it degrades. You can buy proper sleeving.

2) If L1 is at the top and I press the switch at the top, does that connect L1 or L2 to common (usually) ?
L2 usually.

3) Is it ok to pin the cables like this ... ?
Yes.


Can you not connect all the earth wires (CPCs) to the back box?
You should have a grommet at the box knockout where the cables enter.
When you get one you can cut it and fit it round the cables.


One of these and a metal switch would be better.
MC501.jpg
 
Thanks for quick reply!

I didn't connect all the earths to the back box because the connector strip is rated at 5A but I have no idea what the back box is rated at. Perhaps it doesn't matter?

I did wonder about grommets but I've never seen a back box with one! :)

Why is that box and a metal switch better?
 
I didn't connect all the earths to the back box because the connector strip is rated at 5A but I have no idea what the back box is rated at. Perhaps it doesn't matter?
It will be rated at more than the connector. Great big piece of metal.
It will be neater and take up less room.

I did wonder about grommets but I've never seen a back box with one! :)
Tut, tut. Where have you been looking?

Why is that box and a metal switch better?
There are no holes in it. It is made for exposed locations as is a metal clad switch.

98874.jpg
 
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First of all, well done for stripping the cables to a good, workable length. So many DIYers cut them too short.

You don't specify if the wall is being plastered/boarded over.

If the wall isn't being plastered/boarded, then you need a pattress box - plastic if the switch is plastic.

If the wall is being plastered, the box is ok, but needs a grommet.

Those cable clips aren't designed to hold two cables. Use 1/1.5 mm2 twin and earth cable clips, with one cable under one clip.

Use earth sleeving instead of green and yellow tape - the tape is naff.

A good try nonetheless.
 
Thanks again.

I will get some earth sheathing - toolstation only seem to sell 100m rolls!

Yes, the wall is going to be plastered (30mm insulated plasterboard) The box is only 25mm deep but I figured the 5mm-ish difference was ok. Is it?

Will look into grommets.
 
Back box is fine then, as is the switch.

It can be a struggle getting three earth wires to stay in those Appleby back box earth terminal - perhaps for the inexperienced at least. So it may be easier for you to use the connector block, with a lead from the connector to the box.

Remember, doubling over the wire ends will make a stronger connection if the terminal hole is a bit on the big side.
 
Yes, ok then.

I thought it looked like a garage or similar.

And the fact it's been second fixed before boarding!

You really should have clipped the cables flat and tight to the wall to make boarding easier. 30mm board plus the dabs of adhesive will liely be 35mm at least. A 35mm box would be better suited, and gives more room.
 
2) If L1 is at the top and I press the switch at the top, does that connect L1 or L2 to common (usually) ?
A multimeter, at least, is an essential tool to have if you want to work on your electrics. It is just as important to have that correct tool as it is to have screwdrivers to use on screws instead of the point of a vegetable knife, wirecutters to use instead of nail scissors, wirestrippers to use instead of teeth, and so on.

Neon screwdrivers are questionable from a safety POV as they use your body as a current path, and they are unreliable - to safely check for voltage you must use a 2-pole tester, such as a proper voltage indicator or a multimeter.



This looks ideal for a household starter set - multimeter, voltage indicator and dedicated continuity tester, all in a handy case: http://www.amprobe.eu/de_DE/showproduct/115/Junior-Set/

PDF brochure: http://www.amprobe.eu/de_DE/downloadfile/115/beschreibung_1/

All in German, unfortunately, as is the blurb on each product:

Multimeter: http://www.amprobe.eu/de_DE/showproductdata/487/Hexagon_55/

Voltage indicator: http://www.amprobe.eu/de_DE/showproduct/1672/2100-Alpha/

Continuity tester: http://www.amprobe.eu/de_DE/showproduct/481/TESTFIX/

but it should be available in the UK - the company is now owned by Fluke, contact them (http://www.fluke.co.uk) for info on where to buy.

If not, there are sellers in other parts of Europe: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=amprobe+("junior-set"+OR+1333)

Right now the English specs are still lurking on the Internet Time Machine from when Beha was an independent company:

http://web.archive.org/web/20060920022629/http://www.beha.com/files_uk/multimeter/93549.pdf


Also see another discussion here: //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=26282 It's a few years old, so specific model number advice may be obsolete (and prices will be higher), but the generic advice is still sound.
 
Buy 100 metres and let the gardener have 90 metres for tying back the roses. the one with petals, not those on the ceiling. :cry:
 

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