Isolating the supply

[dennohue]

11) REPLACING WC FLOAT VALVE -Thanks to JohnD

You can buy a ball-valve repair kit, but as a new one is so cheap it is hardly worth the trouble and better to renew.

If you undo the blue nut on the RHS, you can take the other parts off the stem and swap the new one for your old one. The old plastic ball float screws onto the end. After taking off the old and before fitting the new valve, turn the water on for a few seconds (with the lid on to reduce splashing) to flush out any debris from the pipes.

The white plastic screw on the RHS should press against the side of the cistern as its purpose is to prevent strain on the threaded shank of the bottom-fed inlet valve.
The white plastic screw on the arm is to adjust the water level.

About to fit new valve and ball float to the bathroom toilet and find I cannot isolate the water supply. Supply is from the storage tank in the loft with an isolating gate valve in the airing cupboard. Strangely ?, with this turned off the water still runs, and with all other taps open there is very little reduction in volume. It is the correct valve, and all other cold water feeds are dead ends, i.e. showers or the supply to the hot water cylinder.

I'm foxed! Can you help?

 

[SUPERPLUMBER]

if you have to drain down the cold water storage vessel in the loft, you can tie up the ball valve to stop any more water entering and open all the cold taps inthe bathroom although the cold tap for the bath should be fed in 22mm and therefore drain down quicker.

once the water has stopped flowing in the bathroom open a cold tap downstairs, maybe a cloakroom if there is one although not the kichen tap should be off the incomming mains...as this will drain the pipework below the level of the bathtaps. this will drain the pipework below the level of the lowest taps i.e bathtaps.


fit your float op valve inthe loo (adding a service valve) and untie the ball in the loft