Joinery advice needed for awkward angle Skirting Board

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Hi everyone, hoping someone can help.

We have had our lounge re-plastered and are replacing all the skirting board. All the 90 deg corners have been fine but we are stumped with the best way to cut the skirting to fit a 150 deg corner (pic below).

DSCF1019a.jpg


We have tried cutting the 'A' section skirting at 45 deg and then edging up the 'B' section with a flat edge but there is always a big overlay and the corners don't meet. I have also tried many different angles on both bits of skirting but again cannot get a satisfactory finish. (Its looks even worse because its the Torus skirting design)

Please could any pros look at the picture and advise the best way to go about it (as the wife is getting fed up of it lol)

Thanks
 
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wall a and wall b meet at a point. the point is the angle bead.

the same will happen with the skirting. the face of the skirting will meet at a pre determined point.

this point will extend for as thick as the material you wish to fix to the wall.

loosely place a piece of skirting against wall "a" and draw a line on the floor marking where skirting and floor meet. do the same for wall "b". were the lines cross is the bisecting point.

draw a short line from the angle bead through the skirting line bisection and this should give the angle of cut.

i hope this makes sense. :eek:
 
Wow, thats a textbook reply :cool:

Thanks alot, it does make sense and I can't believe I never thought of it :eek:
 
Alternatively, if you cut at 75 degrees (half the angle you want to create) to the outside face you should achieve the same result.

I would also cut these angles and check the exterior angle where the two pieces meet before you cut the boards to length .
 
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NOBEX180_xl.jpg


These come in really handy :).

Well, if I was doing this job, I think I'd have to model it on the computer and play around with the join to see how it would fit. I don't understand why you said that using a straight piece and mitring the other piece doesn't work. You need to determin the correct angle of the mitred piece.

Anyway, in my opinion, you definitely need a straight piece, just pick where you want the straight piece to be and the mitred piece to be.

What about overlapping the straight piece over the mitred piece and marking with a pencil where the join should occur?
 
Tozzy said:
I don't understand why you said that using a straight piece and mitring the other piece doesn't work. ?

its because the profile of a cut at 90% is smaller than the profile at any other angle[elongation]

the face off the cut can only be the same if both are cut at the identical angle
 

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