Joining onto cast iron soil pipe

[trevorbayliss]

I have a branch in cast iron which enters the wall about 60cm to the right of the stack. I will need to move the toilet about 80cm backwards, so making the run along the wall and into the tee longer.

I think the cast iron T is a moulded one, so the bit sticking out is set at that angle. All i want to do is cut off the T at a point and connect a coupler and then run everything in plastic to the new toilet hole. All this is in white as well.

Any idea how i connect up ?

 

[ianmcd]

post pics of what you have

 

[trevorbayliss]

In a few weeks when I am next there I will get some

 

[trevorbayliss]

Right i have a photo.

Looks like i can just remove the current tee bit and move the toilet backwards a touch. So the angle will be a little different when it hits the tee collar.

How do i get the teed section to go into the stack at that angle ? Can i get an adapter which will allow me to go in at a different angle ?

The new soil pipe will exit the wall around in line with the right side of the window.

 

[picasso]

Is there no way you can replace the whole stack ?

 

[trevorbayliss]

i just need to remove the tee bit going into the stack. A new section will then go in , but at a different angle

 

[HERTS P&D]

Replace the stack.

Andy

 

[trevorbayliss]

Its a block of flats. I cannot do that or i have to sort out 3 other flats who feed into it. I just want to sort my Tee out.

So can i Tee into this connection and still use the origional T section, or do i have to cut and replace this Tee unit ?

 

[picasso]

You will have to replace the stack from the tee your replacing upwards, you wont get away with "adapting" what is there now.

 

[Ian H]

I’d leave the tee and cut the branch and join to that with a DC115. Or is the bit off the stack lead?

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Looks like the section from the junction through the wall is lead to me. The problem is going to be, getting it to look pretty. I'd suggest you try cutting it off flush with the collar of the junction, fit a McAlpine DC-1 to take you to plastic, and go from there. DC-1 only available in grey or black so would have to paint it if you want it white. See how your angles go with a 45° bend, if that wont work you'll have to use an adjustable bend.

 

[JimCrow]

 

[trevorbayliss]

Thanks all for the replies. Very useful

I like the diagram above.

I do think the piece going through the wall is lead, but will see when i get up there over the next few weeks.

I've used the drain connectors before, so this should fit into the collar of the tee and then i can use plastic.

In this photo you can see what is above and i am not really wanting to mess around with the stack.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

If you can scrape the lead out the cast socket, then a plastic spigot may well go in, then fabricate some sort of seal. Seem to be what they've done on the second and third floor. I really wouldn't want to be fiddling with the cast too much, given the amount above and the risk of a deluge if someone pulls the chain....

 

[trevorbayliss]

Hi all

I have removed the lead pipe today and have taken some photos.

I can just fit a plastic soil pipe into the connection and i think it will tap down fully. Didn't want to test it today as still waiting for my white pipe to come through.

I think i can clean off the inside of the cast iron pipe to make the fit a little cleaner. I would then seal around the tiny gap with silicone.

Do you think this is ok ?