Joining PB to large and plaster

[markyyyyyy]

I’ve created a larger loft hatch opening in my ceiling, and I need to fix plasterboard so it’s flush with the edge of the joists/timbers

1. Every time I try to cut the lathe and plaster, the ceiling sags - how do I achieve a neat join between the board and lathe plaster?
It’s as if I need to clue it back to the lathe strips

2. What is the best way to achieve a swirly rated finish to match the ceiling (only small section to do). not got budget for plasterer to board and skim yet, plus im not too fussed for a skim ceiling

Cheers

 

[oldbutnotdead]

That looks like embossed wallpaper- about your only hope would be make a mould from the existing then use the mould to emboss some new skim or filler or make plaster of Paris bosses and glue them on.
Or don't even try- how high is the ceiling?- high enough to ignore a flat bit?
Next time you do a trap like that, don't kick out so much lath and plaster- I've done a couple and hidden the 'join' with 3" architrave framing the new hole.

 

[conny]

I think the swirly pattern is created by placing a sponge inside a plastic bag, (sandwhich size bag should do), and then push the bag against the wet artex and give it a slight twist before gently pulling away. Any excess on the nag can be wiped off before doing the next swirl.

To straighten up the plaster at the edge of the lathe I would use a straight edge and a sharp Stanley knife. Mark out with the straight edge and a pencil where you want to cut. Take the cut back about 2" so you are not trying to cut the crumbly edge. It may be an idea to screw a board between the joists across the cut line so you have something solid to cut against and help stop the lathes flexing. With the Stanley knife and straight edge GENTLY scrape/score a line across until you get through to the lathe. Doesn't matter if you take 10-12 strokes to do it. The trick is to do it slowly to keep a straight edge, (slowly, slowly catchy monkey). (It may be prudent to do the two 'stop' lines at each side first so you don't go too far). Once all the way through, gently break away the cut section. You now have a straight edge for the new pb and a backplate to screw it into instead of trying to screw into a floppy lathe.

 

[Wayners]

Swirl pattern buy that's not a Pro. It's a DIY swirl.

Lash edge with PVA and fill.
Vacuum back of laths and PVA. Blob board adhesive at the back over laths to firm.

Timer frame all the way around and consider getting 15mm plasterboard. Get the board level Vs trying to build out level