Cheers All, I've got them in now and they look great. I hired a 1/2" router and jig and bought a couple of long straight cutters from
Screwfix (£7 each as opposed to the £20 the hire shop were going to charge). I used this router and jig to cut the recesses for the worktop clamps (three on each joint), I also used it to put a clean cut on the worktop lengths (I used a jigsaw to take the majority off and then finished with router, this saved the cutters).
As the walls were out of square I scribed the correct angle on each of the 'leg' pieces by lifting the top piece on a couple of offcuts and sliding the legs underneath, getting the position right, and then marking the line on the surface. This line gave me the correct angle to set up with the jig. I then cut out the hole for the sink, leaving myself with a nice piece of oak (cheap Xmas presents methinks!).
I then used my 1/4" inch router with a bearing guided chamfer bit to put a nice deep chamfer on the leading edges, stopping a few inches short of the worktop joints and where the bottom of the 'legs' meet the wall at the rear edge. I had a breakout problem on one the legs where the chamfers met (on the front edge), so with the second one a left the worktop a bit too long, put the front chamfer on and then cut to length, this worked a treat (remembering back to my woodworking classes I probably could have clamped a sacrificial block on the end).
After oiling the undersides and getting the moisture barriers in place (for the integrated fridge and dish-washer); I clamped the worktops together with a smear of silicon in the join, with the excess rubbed off with a bit of sawdust. I'm going to finish the tops with a couple of coats of OS Hardwaxoil (now known as Polyx Oil).
I found the following site very useful
http://www.hardwoodfloorstore.co.uk/Worktops/worktop_installation_1.htm as well as all the advice in these forums. I also found the jig and 1/2" router easy to use, what a great piece of kit, I'm now a router convert!
Cheers,
j
